The modelling of short waves in shallow waters and in the surf zone

Brocchini, Maurizio; Drago, Michele; Iovenitti, L.

doi:10.1007/bf02506739

Cited by 3 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…Thanks to the mix of very different backgrounds and skills, PhysicalPub realized in the past very complex events, managing several aspects, from the scientific content to graphics and communication, but also the most technical issues related to information technology and programming. The topics involved span different fields, as for example astrophotography [2], planetary formation [3], astronomical navigation [9], the large scale structure [13], and others. Recently, a new project was conceived and developed by this association, the realization of a web game with the purpose of communicating the science of Imaging Atmospheric Cherenkov Telescopes (IACTs), a fascinating field of astronomy which is unknown by the most of the public.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An engaging solution for the outreach of cosmic-rays science? The innovative “Flashes” web-game!

Iovenitti¹,

Orsenigo²,

Fernández-Barral³

et al. 2023

Proceedings of 38th International Cosmic Ray Conference — PoS(ICRC2023)

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Introducing cosmic-ray science to the general public is a challenging task. In particular, the operating principles of Imaging Atmospheric Cherenkov Telescopes (IACTs) may result confusing and puzzling to students who wonder why these huge optical instruments cannot take beautiful images of astronomical sources. To overcome this issue and learn about IACT astronomy, we propose an innovative solution which is particularly modern and engaging: "Flashes", an educational game on a web application developed ad-hoc by the cultural association PhysicalPub. "Flashes" is based on the physics behind the Cherenkov technique. Atmospheric flashes recorded by IACTs have different shapes depending on their source: hadron, gamma, muon or "else" (car flashes, sky background, electronic noise, and others). In our game, the player is presented with Cherenkov images from real scientific data and simulations, and must classify them according to their origin, trying to mimic the real image discrimination analysis. The game is divided into several sessions, each dedicated to one IACT among the main ones currently in operation: ASTRI-Horn, MAGIC, and LST-1 (Large-Sized Telescope prototype for the CTAO). In every session, the player has one minute to recognize the highest number of images and get the highest score. Several topics related to science education are involved, such as critical thinking, artificial intelligence, and uncertainty of science. "Flashes" supports multiple-player sessions and includes an introduction that educators may use for preparatory explanations. "Flashes" is accessible using a URL from any internet-connected personal device. It is completely free and does not require any account.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An engaging solution for the outreach of cosmic-rays science? The innovative “Flashes” web-game!

Iovenitti¹,

Orsenigo²,

Fernández-Barral³

et al. 2023

Proceedings of 38th International Cosmic Ray Conference — PoS(ICRC2023)

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Preliminary examples of regular waves breaking over a barred bed proflle demonstrated the potential of the model. Brocchini et al (1991Brocchini et al ( ,1992 quantified the shear stress at the interface of the surface roller and the underlying flow by the assumption that the pressure inside the roller is hydrostatic. This was incorporated into equations of the Boussinesq-type and combined with an empirical relationship for the detection and the growth of a surface roller.…”

Section: Flow Modelsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Boussinesq model for wave transformation in coastal regions, with applications to a submerged coral reef

Skotner¹

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Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics in deeper water the first part of the thesis describes the development of a computational model in a single horizontal dimension (2-D). The model can be used to simulate the evolution of relatively long, weakly nonlinear waves in water of constant or variable depth provided the bed slope is of the same order of magnitude as the ratio of the mean water depth and a typical wave length. The numerical solution method is based on the finite difference method and the computations are advanced in time by using a fourth-order accurate predictor-corrector method. A special technique is employed which allows the incident wave field to be generated inside the computational domain. A Fourier method is used to prescribe a form of the incident regular wave field which satisfies the governing equations on a horizontal bottom. Scattered waves leaving the fluid domain are absorbed in the vicinity of the model boundary by employment of damping terms in the mass and momentum equations. This ensures that the wave reflection from the boundary is insignificant.The phcise and amplitude portraits of the numerical solution are considered, and examples are given illustrating that the model conserves well basic properties such as the total mass and energy within the computational domain. The model is used to study the transformation of waves in water of variable depth. The results compare well with both existing laboratory measurements and analytical theory.For practical simulations, e.g. wave evolution inside a proposed harbour, a numerical model is often required which covers two horizontal dimensions (3-D). Consequently, the model is extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Since the formulation is very general, waves can be propagated in virtually any geometry. The analytical manipulations required to generate the incident wave field internally become quite substantial in a formulation covering two horizontal dimensions, and the wave generation concept is therefore generalized and implemented in a simple and efficient way. A number of computational examples are given. These serve as a partial verification of the model. The second part of the thesis considers the effect of spilling wave breaking and the development of waves in the surf zone. The effect of spilling wave breaking is incorporated into the two-dimensional model using the concept of surface rollers. Based on the assumption of a vertical redistribution of the horizontal velocity in a breaking wave a new set of equations is derived. The temporal development of the surface roller thickness is determined heuristically using an existing method. Although the mathematical basis is rather weak and the physical description is very crude the model has the potential to describe a variety of processes such as the fluctuating breaking point caused by random waves breaking on a beach and the important conversion of potential energy to kinetic energy in the outer region of the s...

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Nonlinear shoaling of shallow water waves: perspective in terms of the inverse scattering transform

et al. 1996

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The modelling of short waves in shallow waters and in the surf zone

Cited by 3 publications

References 4 publications

An engaging solution for the outreach of cosmic-rays science? The innovative “Flashes” web-game!

An engaging solution for the outreach of cosmic-rays science? The innovative “Flashes” web-game!

A Boussinesq model for wave transformation in coastal regions, with applications to a submerged coral reef

Nonlinear shoaling of shallow water waves: perspective in terms of the inverse scattering transform

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