The Mechanism of Sewing Damage in Knitted Fabrics

Stylios, George K; Zhu, Reiyao

doi:10.1080/00405009808658627

Cited by 10 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…This not only depends upon the spaces in the fabric, but also on needle profile, needle size, sewing machine setting and sewing thread [21,25]. Fabric structure has an important effect on seam damages too [26].…”

Section: Seam Damagesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Seam Performance of Garments

Gürarda¹

2019

Textile Manufacturing Processes

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Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be selected according to the garment and fabric type. Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters, seam defects and damages. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. However, the stitch and seam parameters, sewing needle penetration force, needle damage index, seam defects and damages that are effective at seam performance have been explained and their relations with each other are compared.

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Section: Seam Damagesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Seam Performance of Garments

Gürarda¹

2019

Textile Manufacturing Processes

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“…Different fabric structures show different physical and mechanical properties, so it is important to know more about fabric structure for improving the fabric and seam quality. The mechanism of sewing damage in knitted fabrics was studied by Stylios and Zhu (1998). An investigation was reported in which penetration of the sewing needle in fabric was recorded using a high-speed video technique.…”

Section: Effect Of Fabric Structure On Sewing Damages/defectsmentioning

confidence: 99%

The study of sewing damage and defects in garments

Choudhary

Sikka

Bansal

2018

RJTA

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Purpose The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam. Design/methodology/approach This section is not applicable for a review paper. Findings Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems. Originality/value It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

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“…Since knitting gauges are becoming higher, the density of those fabrics is increased, rendering them prone to sewability problems. From the results of an earlier study into the effect of knitted fabric properties on sewing [4][5][6][7], the following properties have been found to interact with the sewing process: fabric thickness, fabric compression, fabric bending, fabric and yarn tensile strength and yarn friction. These properties can be measured automatically using specially developed measurement systems [4].…”

Section: The Fabric Properties/machine Settings Interfacementioning

confidence: 99%

Thinking sewing machines for intelligent garment manufacture

Stylios

Sotomi

1996

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

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Quantitative fabric‐needle‐sewing machine interactions at different speeds have been used to construct qualitative rules mapping fabric properties to optimum sewing machine settings for the next generation of “intelligent sewing machines”, using model free estimation. The inference procedures of fuzzy logic have been implemented in a neural network to allow for optimization of output membership functions and subsequently, self‐learning. The technique is successfully applied to industrial lockstitch and overlock sewing machines. Optimum settings were achieved under static and dynamic machine conditions from the properties of difficult fabrics and compensation for mishandling by the operator over the speed range of the sewing machine.

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The Mechanism of Sewing Damage in Knitted Fabrics

Cited by 10 publications

References 4 publications

Seam Performance of Garments

Seam Performance of Garments

The study of sewing damage and defects in garments

Thinking sewing machines for intelligent garment manufacture

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