The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash

Packwood, A.

doi:10.1016/0378-3839(83)90025-x

Cited by 73 publications

(54 citation statements)

References 7 publications

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“…According to Packwood (1983), in general, infiltration/exfiltration leads to minimal changes in the overall swash hydrodynamics. However, it may become important for shingle beaches where the flow across the beach surface may be relevant.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Longo

Petti

Losada

2002

Coastal Engineering

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This paper reviews mainly conceptual models and experimental work, in the field and in the laboratory, dedicated during the last decades to studying turbulence of breaking waves and bores moving in very shallow water and in the swash zone. The phenomena associated with vorticity and turbulence structures measured are summarised, including the measurement techniques and the laboratory generation of breaking waves or of flow fields sharing several characteristics with breaking waves. The effect of air entrapment during breaking is discussed. The limits of the present knowledge, especially in modelling a two-or three-phase system, with air and sediment entrapped at high turbulence level, and perspectives of future research are discussed. D

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Longo

Petti

Losada

2002

Coastal Engineering

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“…Packwood (1983) observed that the effect of infiltration is more significant on uprush than backwash. This increases the sediment transport rate particularly during up-rush (Turner and Masselink 1998) so that the asymmetry in the flow creates an asymmetry in the cross-shore flux of sediment transport.…”

Section: Background Of Gravel Beach Process and Morphologymentioning

confidence: 98%

“…Here, the public domain numerical model, XBeach variant modified and improved to be used on coarse beaches by Jamal (2011) is used. Improvements include: use of Lagrangian interpretation of velocity in place of Eulerian for driving sediment movement; introduction of a new morphological module based upon Soulsby's sediment transport equation for waves and currents (Soulsby, 1997); and incorporation of Packwood's (1983) infiltration approach in the unsaturated area of the swash region. These changes were suggested and justified in order to significantly improve the application of this model to gravel, especially with regard to swash velocity asymmetry which is responsible for development of the steep accretionary phase steep berm above waterline.…”

Section: Xbeach Variant For Gravelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Gravel Beach Profile Evolution in Wave and Tidal Environments

Jamal

Simmonds²,

Magar³

2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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This paper reports progress made in modifying and applying the X-Beach code to predict and explain the observed behaviour of coarse grained beaches. In a previous study a comparison of beach profile evolution measured during large scale experiments under constant water level with numerical model simulations was made. This placed particular emphasis on the tendency for onshore transport and profile steepening during calm conditions (Jamal et al., 2010). The present paper extends that investigation to study the influence of the advection of surf processes induced by tidal water level variations effects, on gravel beach profile evolution. The parameter values and numerical model used in the simulation is similar to that presented previously. It is assumed that, to good approximation, the groundwater interface inside the beach follows the tidally modulated water level. The results obtained from the model shows that the model provides reasonable simulations of beach profile change in a tidal environment. In comparison with simulations under stationary water levels, a larger berm is produced in agreement with literature. Finally, good agreement is obtained between the model simulations and an example of field observations from a beach at Milford on Sea, UK. Further developments are outlined for future work.

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“…Infiltracija i eksfiltracija se zbivaju na mjestu gdje površinska i potpovršinska voda nisu u kontaktu. Stoga infiltracija nastupa na mjestu gdje površinski tok pokriva područje s nižom razinom podzemne vode od razine pokosa (dna), pri čemu perkolacija površinske vode u potpovršinski sloj ovisi o gradijentu tlaka uzduž fronte vlaženja [30]. Primjenjeni numerički model (Xbeach-G) verificiran je na osnovi istraživanja na fizikalnom modelu malog mjerila [21] i detaljnih in situ istraživanja i podataka dobivenih daljinskom detekcijom za nekoliko engleskih šljunčanih plaža uzduž obalne crte [7].…”

Section: Numerički Modelunclassified

Analiza morfodinamičke stabilnosti poprečnog profila šljunčane plaže

2016

JCE

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The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash

Cited by 73 publications

References 7 publications

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review

Gravel Beach Profile Evolution in Wave and Tidal Environments

Analiza morfodinamičke stabilnosti poprečnog profila šljunčane plaže

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