The global politics of African industrial policy: the case of the used clothing ban in Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda

Wolff, Emily

doi:10.1080/09692290.2020.1751240

Cited by 28 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 64 publications

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“…Thus, it was compelling to include questions on circular economy (13 questions) to evaluate retailers' attitudes toward sustainable retailing characteristics (Yang et al, 2017). The last section contained four questions on government policy action toward restricting the import of used clothes, as discussed in other papers (Katende-Magezi, 2017; USAID, 2017; Wetengere, 2018;Wolff, 2020).…”

Section: Methodology Study Design and Sample Sizementioning

confidence: 99%

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The Retail Second-hand Clothing Sector in Developing Economy: Case study of Liberia

Sumo

2022

Croatian Regional Development Journal

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The proliferation of environmental awareness and the growing recognition of the significance of sustainability has resulted in a new trend of retailers embracing secondhand reselling from unsold or unwanted inventories. Their numbers are increasing while also leveraging various business models, strategies, and procedures. This study uses a survey data of 154 responses from retailers of second-hand clothing across four cities in Liberia to evaluate the used clothing sector in the country. Findings from the survey highlight that while the SHC value chain encourages sustainable consumption, it is also a promoter of economic growth, particularly for developing countries emerging from war. Its retail growth potential is closely tied to the level of economic development geared toward supporting subsistence activities. Findings also show that respondents strongly oppose banning the importation of used clothes and the notion that second-hand undergarments pose health challenges. These findings are essential for providing business owners with understanding of the retailing process and how they can strengthen their foothold in the used clothing sector. They also emphasize the used clothing industry’s significance in Liberia and create avenues for future research.

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Section: Methodology Study Design and Sample Sizementioning

confidence: 99%

“…The survey also contained four questions on government policy action toward restricting the import of used clothes, as discussed in other papers (Katende-Magezi, 2017;USAID, 2017;Wetengere, 2018;Wolff, 2020). As shown in Figure 3, SHC retailers in Liberia expressed utterly different views.…”

Section: Policymentioning

confidence: 99%

The Retail Second-hand Clothing Sector in Developing Economy: Case study of Liberia

Sumo

2022

Croatian Regional Development Journal

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“…Khurana and Tadesse (2019) provide an account of how used clothes SC in GS creates an estimated 87,000 jobs in Tanzania, 87,000 jobs in Uganda, 24,000 jobs in Senegal and 22,000 jobs in Rwanda. In Kenya, the used clothes industry employs more people than domestic manufacturers (Wolff, 2021). However, it has been highlighted that the used clothing trade adversely affected the local apparel production in GN and related employment opportunities; for example, between 1981–2000, Africa reported 50% decline in apparel manufacturing-related job opportunities (Brooks, 2013).…”

Section: Economic Sustainability Impacts Of Glocal Used Clothes Scmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sustainability dichotomies of used clothes supply chains: a critical review of key concerns and strategic resources

Dissanayake

2023

IJLM

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PurposeUsed clothes supply chains are becoming increasingly complex, fragmented and less transparent due to rising volumes of discarded clothes and its dispersed reverse logistics operations across the Global North (GN) and Global South (GS). While it has a promising impact on circular economy and international trade growth, increasing exports of used clothes and overflowing landfills raise some negative concerns on its overall sustainability. This paper addresses the dichotomy that exists in terms of interpreting the sustainability credentials of used clothes supply chains.Design/methodology/approachA systematic literature review was carried out and 55 articles were examined to identify the triple bottom line (TBL) sustainability impacts of used clothes supply chains. TBL sustainability issues were identified, reflected through the lens of natural resource-based view and interpreted in the form of propositions.FindingsThe paper pinpoints seven TBL sustainability concerns and prescribes three sets of strategic resources required in glocal used clothes supply chains for mitigating these. These are (1) slowing the supply chain by tackling poor quality, overproduction and oversupply issues, (2) improving logistics/supply chain infrastructure and ecosystem collaboration and (2) embedding transparent environmental, social and governance (ESG) measures taken by both value chain actors and regulatory bodies, for embracing system-level sustainable development.Originality/valueThis is one of the first studies to analyse TBL sustainability of glocal north–south used clothes supply chains. The study is unique in terms of its scope and contribution to the sustainable supply chain literature.

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“…In Rwanda, every $10,000 spent by consumers on used clothing supports 4.8 full-time workers annually [14]. In Kenya, the used clothing industry employs more people than domestic manufacturers [15]. Apart from that, this trade generates government revenue from import tariffs, issuing trade licenses, and renting market stalls [3].…”

Section: Sustainability Impacts Of the Used Clothing Tradementioning

confidence: 99%

Sustainability Impacts of Global Used Clothing Trade and Its Supply Chain

Dissanayake

2023

Lecture Notes in Mechanical Engineering

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Global trade of used clothing, which comprises a series of activities that connect the Global North to the Global South, has grown substantially over the years. This paper analyses the trade data of the export/import trade of used clothing to provide an overview of global trade statistics and explores the sustainability impact of the used clothing trade. Both qualitative and quantitative secondary data were employed in the study. Analysis of export data revealed a declining trend, which may be attributed to the import bans of used clothing and new cheap imports from Asia. While the United States is constantly being the top exporter, and Pakistan is the top importer, the value of exports grew the fastest in China during the last decade. Analysis of sustainability impacts revealed both positive and negative facts. Used clothing markets support thousands of livelihoods and provide affordable clothing for those who live in poverty; however, the fast fashion phenomenon is threatening this important trade. Therefore, this study urges an investigation of alternative business models to reutilize clothing waste. Remanufacturing and recycling-based business models, when implemented in the Global South, could provide viable solutions to reutilize excess clothing while enhancing the sustainability benefits. Developing collaborative relationships among the stakeholders of the used clothing supply chain is immensely necessary to implement such disruptive business models and to capture values along the supply chain.

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The global politics of African industrial policy: the case of the used clothing ban in Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda

Cited by 28 publications

References 64 publications

The Retail Second-hand Clothing Sector in Developing Economy: Case study of Liberia

The Retail Second-hand Clothing Sector in Developing Economy: Case study of Liberia

Sustainability dichotomies of used clothes supply chains: a critical review of key concerns and strategic resources

Sustainability Impacts of Global Used Clothing Trade and Its Supply Chain

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