The Effect of Climbing Ability and Slope Inclination on Vertical Foot Loading Using a Novel Force Sensor Instrumentation System

Baláš, Jiří; Panáčková, Michaela; Jandová, Soňa; Martin, Andrew J.; Strejcová, Barbora; Vomáčko, Ladislav; Charousek, Jan; Cochrane, Darryl J.; Hamlin, Michael J.; Draper, Nick

doi:10.2478/hukin-2014-0112

Cited by 34 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 13 publications

(17 reference statements)

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“…Consequently, these dimensions maximise potential finger flexor activation. The testing position saw the arm placed at 180° shoulder flexion and full elbow extension according recommendations made by Baláš et al (2014). All measurements were undertaken in seated position with the shoulder of the tested arm placed vertically under the wooden hold ( Fig.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Baláš

Michailov

Giles

et al. 2015

European Journal of Sport Science

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This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P< .05), force-time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Baláš

Michailov

Giles

et al. 2015

European Journal of Sport Science

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“…Rock-climbing requires equilibrating and moving the entire body along routes across walls, boulders, and cliffs, using quadrupedal locomotion. It requires many physical (Baláš, 2017), psychological (Sanchez, 2017), technical (Baláš et al, 2014;Quaine, Martin, Leroux, Blanchi, & Allard, 1996), and cognitive skills (Bourdin, Teasdale, & Nougier, 1998;Epling, Blakely, Russel, & Helton, 2017). These include the crucial capacities to exert strong fingertip forces on the holds and pull ups with the upper limbs to reach the next hold (Draper, Dickson, Blackwell, Priestley, Fryer, Marshall, Shearman, Hamlin, Winter & Ellis, 2011;Watts, 2004).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

Vigouroux

Devise

Cartier

et al. 2018

Journal of Sports Sciences

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Pull-ups are often used by sport-climbers and other athletes to train their arm and back muscle capabilities. Sport-climbers use different types of holds to reinforce finger strength concomitantly. However, the effect of grip types on pull-up performance had not previously been investigated. A vertical force platform sensor measured the force exerted by climbers when performing pull-ups under six different grip conditions (gym-bar, large climbing hold, and four small climbing holds: 22mm, 18mm, 14mm, and 10mm). The electromyography of finger flexors and extensor muscles were recorded simultaneously. The maximal arm power and summed mechanical work were computed. The results revealed that the number of pull-ups, maximal power, and summed mechanical work decreased significantly with the size of the climbing hold used, even if no differences were found between a large climbing hold and a gym-bar. Electromyography of the forearm muscles revealed that the use of a climbing hold generated finger flexor fatigue and that the level of cocontraction was impacted by the different segment coordination strategies generated during the pull-ups. These findings are likely to be useful for quantifying training loads more accurately and designing training exercises and programs.

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“…As this ability group has the lowest experience with the sport, climbing to height might have presented a more mentally demanding condition resulting in changes in the use of forces on hold during ascent. Previously, it has been demonstrated that less experienced climbers disproportionally load their arms than their legs, thereby increasing their physiological response when compared with higher-grade climbers (Baláš et al, 2014). In agreement with this difference, RPE has been found to be higher during arm exercise than with leg exercise (G. Pandolf et al, 1984;Borg et al, 1987).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 72%

Effect of Height on Perceived Exertion and Physiological Responses for Climbers of Differing Ability Levels

2020

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The purpose of this study was to examine differences in perceived exertion (RPE) and physiological responses for climbers of different abilities completing an identical route low and high above the ground. Materials and Methods: Forty-two male (N = 18) and female (N = 24) sport climbers divided into three groups, lower-grade (N = 14), intermediate (N = 14), and advanced climbers (N = 14), completed two visits to a climbing gym, separated by 7 days. In a random order, the climbers completed a close-to-the-ground ascent (treadwall) and climb to height (climbing gym). Immediately after the test, climbers provided their RPE (6-20). Indirect calorimetry was used to assess physiological response during the ascent and recovery. Results: The mean (±standard deviation) RPE was higher for lower-grade climbers when ascending the route on the wall (RPE = 12 ± 1) when compared to the treadwall route (RPE = 11 ± 1, P = 0.040; d = 0.41). For all ability groups, the physiological response was higher on the climbing gym wall as opposed to the treadwall: ventilation (P = 0.003, η p 2 = 0.199), heart rate (HR) (P = 0.005, η p 2 = 0.189), energy cost (EC) (P = 0.000, η p 2 = 0.501). The RPE demonstrated a moderate relationship with physiological variables (R 2 = 0.14 to R 2 = 0.45). Conclusion: Climbing to height induced a greater metabolic stress than climbing at a low height (treadwall) and led to higher RPE for lower-grade climbers. In this study, RPE appeared to be a good proxy measure of the physiological demands for advanced climbers but not for intermediate and lower-grade climbers. Therefore, using RPE in climbing with less experienced athletes may perhaps overestimate actual exercise intensity and should be interpreted carefully.

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The Effect of Climbing Ability and Slope Inclination on Vertical Foot Loading Using a Novel Force Sensor Instrumentation System

Cited by 34 publications

References 13 publications

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

Effect of Height on Perceived Exertion and Physiological Responses for Climbers of Differing Ability Levels

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