Systematic Collection of Beach Data

Berg, Dennis W.

doi:10.1061/9780872620131.017

Cited by 3 publications

(5 citation statements)

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“…Moreover, to ensure the markers at these points during the entire programme requires continuous surveillance, which again involves considerable recurring cost. In this data collection programme, waves are tracked till it breaks and the height of the breaking waves are observed visually from the shore similar to the programme carried out elsewhere [16,17]. Since waves of different heights break at different water depths, the location of measurement varies.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The data by visual observation on coastal environment have been collected since 1973 from 18 study areas (Fig. 1), each area covering a stretch of 2 km, along the Kerala coast [15]; similar programmes are also carried out elsewhere as reported by the researchers [16,17]. Data collection focused on many parameters influencing the coast; the wave characteristics are among the parameters recorded.…”

Section: Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The direction of wave approach (D V ) is measured using prismatic compass. The methodology adopted for the visual observation of wave parameters is similar to that reported by Berg (1969). The present study makes use of the data collected by the Water Resources Department of Government of Kerala.…”

Section: Data Collectionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Validation of Visually Observed Waves with the Recorded Waves on the Southwest Coast of India

Abdulla

James

2017

J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. A

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The wave climate, pre-requisite information for planning and design of coastal engineering structures, can be obtained by different methods. Coastal protection works require wave climate in the nearshore region; deployment of wave sensors and visual observation of the waves from the shore are among the methods that can be adopted for collecting the wave data. On the southwest coast of India (Kerala), wave data have been collected by visual observation from the shore, at 18 stations located along the entire coastline since 1973. The pressure type wave sensors were installed in the nearshore region at four stations, almost equally spaced along the coast and data acquired for a period of 4 years. Of the four instrument stations, two were located at the visual observation station itself, the third one was about 7 km from the nearest visual observation station and the fourth station midway between two visual observation stations-the distance between the instrument station and the visual observation stations being about 20 km. Study revealed that the visually observed wave parameters are comparable with the wave parameters acquired by the instrument, particularly with respect to the wave height.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

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Validation of Visually Observed Waves with the Recorded Waves on the Southwest Coast of India

Abdulla

James

2017

J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. A

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“…In Kerala, coastal protection works have been carried out since 1890 (Moni, 1979) and the need for long term coastal data was felt during the period of severe erosion in early 1960s (Watts, 1964 and 65;and Reynolds, 1964). Littoral environmental data have been collected from 18 study areas along the Kerala coast since 1973 (CEFS-WRD, 1995), similar to the programme carried out elsewhere (Berg, 1969 andSchneider, 1981 Malabar Coast, the northern portion of Kerala coast has 330km long coastline and five out of nine coastal districts fall in this region. Out of the 18 study areas, 9 are located on the Malabar Coast and the remaining 9 are located on Thiru-Kochi coast (Fig.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Seasonal and Medium Term Changes in the Shoreline Position at Selected Stations on Malabar Coast, Kerala

Abdulla

Jishnudas

Mish

2011

ISH Journal of Hydraulic Engineering

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1)Coastal environment data pertaining to wave parameters, wind, littoral current, beach characteristics and shoreline position are being collected from the selected stations on the Kerala coast since 1973. To assess the changes during different seasons and years, shoreline positions at different points are measured regularly with respect to the reference point. Analysis of shoreline position from stations located on Malabar (northern Kerala) coast revealed that the fluctuation is maximum during south-west monsoon followed by non-monsoon season. Different stations show different pattern of shoreline changes like fluctuation, erosion, stable and accretion. The maximum changes in the shoreline position (erosion) happened at Kozhikode whereas at Padinjare Vemballur, the changes are the minimum (accretion).

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“…The nearshore wave shoaling slope also becomes steeper to the SW as a tidal channel impinges on the shoreline. A shore-parallel sand bar is usually present to the NE (Carter and Kitcher (1979) Around the Point wave data were collected at five locations numbered M4 to M8 (Figure 4) using methods outlined by Berg (1968), although wave height estimates were checked using a hand-held graduated staff. Heights up to 1.0 m are correct to +/-15 per cent.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

Carter¹

1980

Earth Surf. Process.

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SUMMARYMagilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.

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Systematic Collection of Beach Data

Cited by 3 publications

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Validation of Visually Observed Waves with the Recorded Waves on the Southwest Coast of India

Validation of Visually Observed Waves with the Recorded Waves on the Southwest Coast of India

Seasonal and Medium Term Changes in the Shoreline Position at Selected Stations on Malabar Coast, Kerala

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

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