The 60 nucleotide GTPase center (GAC) of 23S rRNA has a phylogenetically conserved secondary structure with two hairpin loops and a 3-way junction. It folds into an intricate tertiary structure upon addition of Mg2+ ions, which is stabilized by the L11 protein in cocrystal structures. Here we monitor the kinetics of its tertiary folding and Mg2+-dependent intermediate states by observation of selected nucleobases that contribute specific interactions to the GAC tertiary structure in the cocrystals. The fluorescent nucleobase 2-aminopurine (2AP) replaced three individual adenines, two of which make long-range stacking interactions, and one that also forms hydrogen bonds. Each site reveals a unique response to Mg2+ addition and temperature, reflecting its environmental change from secondary to tertiary structure. Stopped-flow fluorescence experiments revealed that kinetics of tertiary structure formation upon addition of MgCl2 are also site-specific, with local conformational changes occurring from 5 ms – 4 s, and with global folding from 1- 5 s. Site-specific substitution with 15N-nucleobases allowed observation of stable hydrogen bond formation by NMR experiments. Equilibrium titration experiments indicate that a stable folding intermediate is present at stoichiometric concentrations of Mg2+, and suggest that there are two initial sites of Mg2+ ion association.