Statistical distributions for ocean waves

Putz, R. R.

doi:10.1029/tr033i005p00685

Cited by 25 publications

(20 citation statements)

References 4 publications

(2 reference statements)

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“…The theoretical background is developed in e.g. Putz (1952), Darlington (1954), Munk (1955), Goodknight and Russel (1963), Pierson and Moskowitz (1964), Glukhovskij (1966) and Davidan et al (1978). The results of applied studies are summarized in several monographs and handbooks, such as Rzheplinskiy (1969) and Simonov and Altman (1991).…”

Section: Overview Of Wave Regime Studies Of the Black Seamentioning

confidence: 99%

Wind waves in the Black Sea: results of a hindcast study

Архипкин

Gippius

Колтерманн

et al. 2014

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. In this study we describe the wind wave fields in the Black Sea. The general aims of the work were the estimation of statistical wave parameters and the assessment of interannual and seasonal wave parameter variability. The domain of this study was the entire Black Sea. Wave parameters were calculated by means of the SWAN wave model on a 5 × 5 km rectangular grid. Initial conditions (wind speed and direction) for the period between 1949 and 2010 were derived from the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis. According to our calculations the average significant wave height on the Black Sea does not exceed 0.7 m. Areas of most significant heavy sea are the southwestern and the northeastern parts of the sea as expressed in the spatial distribution of significant wave heights, wave lengths and periods. Besides, long-term annual variations of wave parameters were estimated. Thus, linear trends of the annual total duration of storms and of their quantity are nearly stable over the hindcast period. However, an intensification of storm activity is observed in the 1960s-1970s.

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Section: Overview Of Wave Regime Studies Of the Black Seamentioning

confidence: 99%

Wind waves in the Black Sea: results of a hindcast study

Архипкин

Gippius

Колтерманн

et al. 2014

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…The work of Putz (1952) and that of Longuet-Higgins (1952) are quite useful in this respect. It was shown by Bretschneider (1957) …”

Section: Wave Variabilitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Although one forecasts the significant height and period, it must be remembered that the sea is actually made up of a spectrum of waves, with varying amplitudes and frequencies or periods. The work of Putz (1952) and that of LonguetHiggins (1952) show the distribution of heights about the mean height, and Putz (1952) shows the distribution of periods about the mean period. The theoretical distribution of neights by Longuet-Higgins is known as the Rayleigh type distribution based on a narrow spectrum, and the agreement is surprisingly good with the distribution obtained by Putz (1952) based on the analysis of wave records.…”

Section: Decay Of Waves In Deep Watermentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The work of Putz (1952) and that of LonguetHiggins (1952) show the distribution of heights about the mean height, and Putz (1952) shows the distribution of periods about the mean period. The theoretical distribution of neights by Longuet-Higgins is known as the Rayleigh type distribution based on a narrow spectrum, and the agreement is surprisingly good with the distribution obtained by Putz (1952) based on the analysis of wave records. Thus the 42 significant height can be related to the distribution of all heights in the spectrum, and the significant period can be related to the distribution of all periods in the spectrum, when the significant and mean •wave periods are nearly equal.…”

Section: Decay Of Waves In Deep Watermentioning

confidence: 99%

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Revisions in Wave Forecasting: Deep and Shallow Water

Bretschneider

1957

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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During the past six years since the latest revisions in wave forecasting (Bretschneider 19J>1) were made, much information has become available such that another revision is in order. An abundance of published (and unpublished) accounts of wave generation and decay in botn deep and shallow water from various sources, as well as new ideas in the art of wave forecasting, are used in this revision. Deep water wave forecasting relationships, relationships for the generation of wind waves in shallow water of constant depth, and techniques for forecasting wind waves over the Continental Shelf are included in this paper. Forecasting hurricane waves is also discussed, from the engineering design point of view. The concept of significant wave is still retained as the most practical method in wave forecasting to date. The significant period has definite significance in that the wave energy is propagated forward at a speed approximately equal to the corresponding group velocity.The graphical approach (Wilson 19$$) for moving fetches and variable wind vectors is discussed, and is the best approach for forecasting waves. Without Wilson 1 s graphical technique it is difficult for any two forecasters supplied with the same meteorological data to obtain the same degree of verification, or determine whether the forecaster or the forecasting relationships are in error. It is quite possible that by use of this technique further revisions in wave forecasting are possible.The problem of wave variability is discussed, and the distributior functions are given. A short summary of the wave spectra (Bretschneide 1958) used in connection with the revisions is also given.When the present forecasting relationships are applied to sections of the world, other than that from which the basic data were procured, it is recommended that atmospheric stability factors be taken into account. This essentially involves a slight modification or calibratic of the forecasting relationships and techniques, prior to general use in the area of interest.

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“…This statistical data have been accumulated for several decades. For example, Putz announced in 1952 that the mean ratio of the significant to mean wave height is 1.57 and ratio of the one tenth to significant wave height is 1.29 (Putz, 1952).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Validity of Ocean Wave Spectrum Using Rayleigh Probability Density Function

Choi¹,

Yang²,

Kwon

2012

International Journal of Ocean System Engineering

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The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

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Statistical distributions for ocean waves

Cited by 25 publications

References 4 publications

Wind waves in the Black Sea: results of a hindcast study

Wind waves in the Black Sea: results of a hindcast study

Revisions in Wave Forecasting: Deep and Shallow Water

Validity of Ocean Wave Spectrum Using Rayleigh Probability Density Function

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