Stabilization of vitamin C in emulsions of liquid crystalline structures

Caritá, Amanda C.; Azevedo, Jacqueline Resende de; Buri, Marcus V.; Bolzinger, Marie‐Alexandrine; Chevalier, Yves; Riske, Karin A.; Leonardi, Gislaine Ricci

doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2020.120092

Cited by 21 publications

(16 citation statements)

References 53 publications

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“…Our results revealed that the developed emulsions contained a complex colloidal structure in the oil‐water interface, consisting of the lamellar liquid crystalline (Lα) and lamellar gel crystalline (Lβ) phases. This structure was very efficient in preventing the oxidation of AA 15 . Liquid crystals were first described in emulsions in 1969.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50 MHz ultrasound

Vergilio

Aiello

Furlan

et al. 2022

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Introduction Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti‐aging treatments is by using the high‐frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non‐invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Methods Twenty‐five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA‐containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), 2 h later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α = 0.05). Results A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Conclusion Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50 MHz ultrasound

Vergilio

Aiello

Furlan

et al. 2022

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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“…At the end of the analysis (60 days), the L‐AA content varied greatly between samples (<LOD to 79.97 mg L −1 ; Table 5). These results are notable owing to the unstable characteristics of L‐AA [43]. Besides, it was noted that between 0 and 15 days, and 45 and 60 days, the L‐AA concentration of AL1, AH3, AH4 and AH1 samples decreased at a slower rate than at other analysis times (Figure 2).…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 95%

Rapid determination of L‐ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry

Pizzo

Cruz

Rodrigues

et al. 2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective This study aimed to develop and validate a rapid, simple, accurate and precise analytical method for the quantification of L‐AA in vitamin C serums. Moreover, the developed method was further applied to determine L‐AA in eight different brands of vitamin C serums. A complementary study was also carried out to evaluate the stability of L‐AA in the vitamin C serum samples after 15, 30, 45 and 60 days of storage at ambient temperature (15–35°C). Methods Ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry was applied. Results Quantitative analyses were performed with a total chromatographic run time of 1.5 min by matrix‐matched calibration, and the analytical curve was linear over the range of 1–1700 µg L−1 with a correlation coefficient of 0.9998. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) were 0.3 and 1.0 µg L−1, respectively. Intra‐ and inter‐assay precisions, expressed in terms of relative standard deviation, ranged from 0.3% and 2.2%, respectively, and recoveries in concentration levels of 1 and 5 µg L−1 were 103.9% and 101.2%, respectively. The proposed analytical method was successfully applied to determine the L‐AA content in eight commercial vitamin C serum samples. The stability of the target analyte in samples stored at ambient temperature (15–35°C) was evaluated throughout 60 days with a 15‐day interval between analyses. At 0 days, L‐AA content in samples ranged from 1.05 to 169.91 mg L−1, which decreases over time. Conclusion The proposed method could be powerful in routine analyses to ensure the quantification of L‐AA in vitamin C serums since it proved to be a simple, reliable, fast, precise, accurate and sensitive analytical method.

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“…Although liquid crystals have been successfully applied for delivery of cosmetic ingredients, such as retinol, resveratrol, ascorbic acid [56,62,63], their application as a delivery system for peptides has not yet been as common as other lipid‐base delivery systems. Therefore, further investigations focusing on the liquid crystals containing anti‐wrinkle peptides are considerably required.…”

Section: Encapsulation Of Anti‐wrinkle Peptides Into Lipid‐based Nano...mentioning

confidence: 99%

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti‐wrinkle peptide performance

Mortazavi

Moghimi

2022

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Background:The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. As peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. Method:In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.Results: Most anti-wrinkle peptides are not appropriate candidates for skin permeation and the use of enhancement methods is essential to increase their permeability. To do so, only some permeability enhancement approaches have been applied so far, including chemical modification with hydrophobic moieties or cell penetrating peptides, metal complexation, chemical permeation enhancers, iontophoresis, microneedles, and encapsulation in nanocarriers. The results of studies published on the skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides carnosine, GHK, PKEK, GEKG, GQPR, and KTTKS indicate that the skin permeability of these peptides can be successfully increased. Conclusion:Although the skin permeability of most anti-wrinkle peptides is not high enough and most anti-wrinkle peptides might not reach their targets in the skin at right concentrations, their permeability can be increased to therapeutic concentrations using various enhancement approaches. K E Y W O R D Santi-wrinkle peptides, cosmetic peptides, permeability enhancement approaches, skin delivery of peptides, skin permeability | 233 MORTAZAVI and MOGHIMI Résumé Contexte: La peau offre divers avantages et a la faculté de recevoir des peptides si l'on parvient à réduire temporairement et de manière réversible sa capacité à fonctionner comme une barrière. Comme les peptides ont un poids moléculaire élevé, une nature hydrophile (dans la plupart des cas) et possèdent des groupes ionisables dans leur structure, il est très difficile d'en faire bénéficier la peau. En outre, ils sont sensibles aux enzymes protéolytiques de la peau. Les peptides antirides, comme d'autres peptides, souffrent d'une capacité insuffisante de perméation de la peau ; or, la plupart d'entre eux doivent y pénétrer profondément pour avoir une efficacité.Bien que les études cellulaires indiquent l'efficacité de ces peptides, s'ils sont incapables de pénétrer s...

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Stabilization of vitamin C in emulsions of liquid crystalline structures

Cited by 21 publications

References 53 publications

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50 MHz ultrasound

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50 MHz ultrasound

Rapid determination of L‐ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti‐wrinkle peptide performance

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