Sportklettern

Radiographic Changes in the Hands and Fingers of Young, High-Level Climbers

“…Even if cortical hypertrophy was visually present on the radiographs, it seems to need a longer period of time to develop up to a level at which it becomes significant. In an analysis of 140 adult climbers, 23 we demonstrated a positive correlation between climbing years and cortical hypertrophy, which was more frequent after 5 or 10 years of climbing than after 2 years of climbing. Also, in our present study, the Barnett Nordin index proved to have an excessively large normal range (0.35-0.66) to become a pathologic finding in our groups.…”

“…The results were compared between the 3 groups and against radiographs of 140 long-term climbers. 23 History was obtained using a standard questionnaire (64 questions on training history, sport-related medical history, nutrition, training methods), which will also be used for further evaluation in training methods. The documented training hours were taken from the training books for GJNT and from the trainers/high school teachers for RC.…”

“…Table 2 shows the evaluation of the radiographs of the GJNT, the RC, and the CG; Table 3 demonstrates analyses of radiographs according to climbing years in 140 longterm climbers. 23…”

Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers

“…Although Warme and Brooks 19 could not find any difference in pulley tearing force with or without taping, conservative therapy has shown very good functional results. 1,2,7,8,20 Depending on the interval between trauma and consultation as well as local swelling, we recommend an initial immobilization of 10 to 14 days with a palmar splint combined with anti-inflammatory agents and elevation. Thereafter, treatment consists of early functional therapy with pulley protection by using tape or thermoplastic/ soft-cast ring, finger gymnastics, or a Thera-Band Hand Exerciser (Thera-Band, Akron, OH).…”

“…Clinically, there is reduced flexion in the distal interphalangeal joint, and sometimes there is an extension deficit of the proximal interphalangeal joint. 4,6,7,16,20 Surgical repair is based on the biomechanical analyses of Lin et al 21 as well as the comparison of surgical repairs done by Widstrom et al 11,22 A single stitching of the remaining incomplete rims of the pulleys is insufficient; a plastic repair is essential. The following various methods have been described: the Kleinert and Bennet 12 repair based on Weilby's idea, the ''belt-loop'' technique of Karev et al, 23 the ''single-loop'' technique according to Bunnel, 24 the Lister 25 repair with retinaculum flexorum, the palmaris longus tendon transplantation through the volar plate according to Doyle, 11 the ''loop and a half'' technique of Widstrom et al, 11 and the ''triple loop'' technique by Okutsu et al 26 Considering the biomechanical analyses of Widstrom et al 11,22 and the reports of Hahn and Lanz, 4 we favor the loopand-a-half technique of Widstrom et al with a free transplant of the palmaris longus tendon.…”