Spectral structure of breaking waves and its influence on the transport of sediments in coastal zone

Kuznetsov, Sergey; Saprykina, Yana; Shtremel, Margarita; Kuznetsova, Olga

doi:10.1109/oceans-genova.2015.7271347

Cited by 5 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 7 publications

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“…In both oceanography and limnology, turbidity is of great importance in the study of the development conditions of the euphotic zone, where the passage of sunlight is crucial for the development of marine flora [1], study of the sediments transport phenomena [2,3] and study of water quality [4], particularly those for human consumption. Turbidity is a physical property of fluids that translates into reduced optical transparency due to the presence of suspended and dissolved materials that block the passage of light [5].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of a Cost-Effective Optical Sensor for Continuous Monitoring of Turbidity and Suspended Particulate Matter in Marine Environment

Matos

Faria

Martins

et al. 2019

Sensors

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A cost-effective optical sensor for continuous in-situ monitoring of turbidity and suspended particulate matter concentration (SPM), with a production cost in raw materials less than 20 €, is presented for marine or fluvial applications. The sensor uses an infrared LED and three photodetectors with three different positions related to the light source—135º, 90º and 0º—resulting in three different types of light detection: backscattering, nephelometry and transmitted light, respectively. This design allows monitoring in any type of environment, offering a wide dynamic range and accuracy for low and high turbidity or SPM values. An ultraviolet emitter–receiver pair is also used to differentiate organic and inorganic matter through the differences in absorption at different wavelengths. The optical transducers are built in a watertight structure with a radial configuration where a printed circuit board with the electronic signal coupling is assembled. An in-lab calibration of the sensor was made to establish a relation between suspended particulate matter (SPM) or the turbidity (NTU) to the photodetectors’ electrical output value in Volts. Two different sizes of seashore sand were used (180 µm and 350 µm) to evaluate the particle size susceptibility. The sensor was tested in a fluvial environment to evaluate SPM change during sediment transport caused by rain, and a real test of 22 days continuous in-situ monitoring was realized to evaluate its performance in a tidal area. The monitoring results were analysed, showing the SPM change during tidal cycles as well as the influence of the external light and biofouling problems.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of a Cost-Effective Optical Sensor for Continuous Monitoring of Turbidity and Suspended Particulate Matter in Marine Environment

Matos

Faria

Martins

et al. 2019

Sensors

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…High values of the skewness coefficient show that breaking in XBeach model is probably described as spilling, because in observations and laboratory experiments plunging breaking waves have skewness less than 1 [29]. Waves breaking by spillage are symmetric relative to the vertical axis, they have sharp crests and flat troughs, while plunging breaking waves have steep fronts [30].…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 97%

“…An Explanation of wave asymmetry impact on sediment transport w discussed in detail in [30]. Cross-shore sediment transport is defined by the balance of wav-induced sediment transport directed to the shore, and the undertow, which moves sediments seaward.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of Underwater Bar Location on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone

Kuznetsova

Saprykina

2019

JMSE

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The effect of the underwater bar position on a sandy beach profile was studied on a timescale of one storm, using the XBeach numerical model. The largest shoreline regress occurred in the first hour of storm. For the chosen wave regime an underwater profile close to the theoretical Dean’s equilibrium profile is formed after 6 h. The position of the underwater bar affects the shoreline retreat rate. The lowest shore retreat occurs when the bar crest is located at a distance equal to 0.70–0.82 of the deep-water wavelength, corresponding to the period of the wave spectrum peak. The maximal shoreline retreat occurs when the bar is located at a distance that is close to a half wavelength. The shoreline recession depends on the heights of low-frequency waves. The smaller the mean wave period and the higher low-frequency waves’ height near the coast, the smaller the retreat of the shoreline. The distance of seaward sediment transfer is directly proportional to the significant wave height near shore.

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“…Sediments transport under breaking waves can depends on type of wave breaking, because waves breaking by spilling have symmetry not the same as waves breaking by plunging (Kuznetsov et al, 2015). Due to dependence of sediment transport on wave asymmetry (Bailard, 1981) the difference in shape of breaking waves also can be important.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of Wave Transformation Processes on Evolution of Underwater Beach Profile

Saprykina¹,

Kuznetsova²

2018

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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On the base of field experimental data were confirmed that the main wave parameters for cross-shore sediment transport are the significant wave height, spectral peak period and wave steepness. Waves with narrowband spectrum more effect on changes of underwater profile. For a qualitative assessment of erosion/accumulation the Dean parameter, the Ursell and Iribarren numbers can be used. However the physical processes of wave transformation play an important role. The most significant are nonlinear wave transformation and wave breaking, especially the type of wave breaking.

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Spectral structure of breaking waves and its influence on the transport of sediments in coastal zone

Cited by 5 publications

References 7 publications

Development of a Cost-Effective Optical Sensor for Continuous Monitoring of Turbidity and Suspended Particulate Matter in Marine Environment

Development of a Cost-Effective Optical Sensor for Continuous Monitoring of Turbidity and Suspended Particulate Matter in Marine Environment

Influence of Underwater Bar Location on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in the Coastal Zone

Influence of Wave Transformation Processes on Evolution of Underwater Beach Profile

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