Shorerise and bar‐berm profiles on ocean beaches

Inman, Douglas L.; Elwany, M. Hany S.; Jenkins, Scott A.

doi:10.1029/93jc00996

Cited by 129 publications

(82 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…(1) also leads to the estimate of the so-called "fitting depth", i.e., the water depth at which the measured profile collapse over the equilibrium profile. Though recent models account for further parameters, like seasonal changes (Inman et al, 1993) or the generation of submerged bars (Holman et al, 2014), their application is fairly difficult and it has been demonstrated that Eq. (1) properly represents the long-term natural profile, to be used for coastal engineering purposes (e.g., Walton and Dean, 2007;Soldini et al, 2013).…”

Section: Description Of the Sitementioning

confidence: 99%

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

et al. 2017

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Abstract. In recent years, attention has been paid to beach protection by means of soft and hard defenses. Along the Italian coast of the Adriatic Sea, sandy beaches are the most common landscape feature and around 70 % of the Marche region's coast (central Adriatic) is protected by defense structures. The longest free-from-obstacle nearshore area in the region includes the beach of Senigallia, frequently monitored in the last decades and characterized by a multiple bar system, which represents a natural beach defense. The bathymetries surveyed in 2006, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 show long-term stability, confirmed by a good adaptation of an analyzed stretch of the beach to the Dean-type equilibrium profile, though a strong short-to medium-term variability of the wave climate has been observed during the monitored periods. The medium-term dynamics of the beach, which deal with the evolution of submerged bars and are of the order of years or seasons, have been related to the wave climate collected, during the analyzed temporal windows, by a wave buoy located about 40 km off Senigallia. An overall interpretation of the hydrodynamics, sediment characteristics and seabed morphology suggests that the wave climate is fundamental for the morphodynamic changes of the beach in the medium term. These medium-term time ranges during which waves mainly come from NNE/ESE are characterized by a larger/smaller steepness and by a larger/smaller relative wave height, and seem to induce seaward/shoreward bar migration as well as bar smoothing/steepening. Moving southeastward, the bar dimension increases, while the equilibrium profile shape suggests the adaptation to a decreasing sediment size in the submerged beach. This is probably due to the presence of both the harbor jetty and river mouth north of the investigated area.

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Section: Description Of the Sitementioning

confidence: 99%

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

et al. 2017

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“…However, it is well known that a one-year-long beach evolution occurs through a series of "stages" (expressed by different topographic profiles) which endpoints are represented by the winter and summer profiles (see again Figure 2) [83]- [87]. These stages result from cut and fill alternations over seasons, producing beach profiles that show changes in form, being higher and wider after phases of accretion and lower and flatter (with a backing rise or cliff) after phases of erosion [7].…”

Section: Temporal Scale Of the Observationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Short-Term Assessment of Retreating vs. Advancing Microtidal Beaches Based on the Backshore/Foreshore Length Ratio: Examples from the Basilicata Coasts (Southern Italy)

Longhitano¹

2015

OJMS

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A straightforward conceptual method is proposed to quantitatively assess the seasonal-scale tendency of retreatment or advancement on microtidal beaches by using the backshore/foreshore length ratio. This method is based on measuring the cross-shore profile of a beach when it passes through the "transitional state" that separates the high-from the low-energy season, period during which the morphological characteristics of the beach tend to its equilibrium profile. In order to obtain real measurements of backshore (B) and foreshore (F), the definition of the limits bounding these two important components in subaerial beaches is reviewed and discussed. The approach based on the measurement of the B/F length ratio assumes that foreshore and backshore have equivalent lengths in beaches that approximate to their state of morphodynamic equilibrium (B/F ~ 1). A backshore length exceeding the foreshore length is indicative of a state of beach recession, with a B/F length ratio > 1. When the foreshore length is greater than the backshore length, the shoreline is advancing or, alternatively, it is developing in a state of morphological confinement, i.e. due to the presence of a sea cliff, with a B/F < 1. This practical method is then tested against 36 sand and gravel microtidal beach profiles measured along the coasts of Basilicata, in southern Italy. The various "beach states" are summarised into seven classes (I-VII), each identified from specific value intervals of the B/F length ratio.

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“…One campaign was at the end of the summer of 2003 and another at the end of the winter of 2003-2004 in order to characterise the principal morphodynamic equilibrium states of the beaches (Wright et al [7] and Short [5] Best fit was found in most of the cases by using two Dean Profiles. One for the intertidal part of the profile (A 1 ) and another for the submerged part (A 2 ) (Inman et al [2]). In order to understand the main seasonal sand movements inside the Bay, data from the summer and winter topo-bathymetric campaigns data were compared (see Figure 6).…”

Section: Medium Termmentioning

confidence: 99%

Morphodynamic study of the Ondarreta Beach in San Sebastian (Spain)

Liria¹,

Gyssels²,

Galparsoro³

et al. 2006

WIT Transactions on Ecology and the Environment, Vol 88

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Ondarreta Beach is one of the most emblematic and visited beaches in the Basque Country. This beach is part of La Concha bay, with Santa Clara Island in the middle of the bay and a semi submerged dike and reef in front of it. The combination of this morphology together with the tidal range in the area (max. springs 4.6m) results in a very particular wave climate.The beach contains different strata of sand, natural rocks and the remains of artificial structures. Therefore, rocks sometimes appear at the surface, depending on the changes of the beach profile. This situation harms the normal use of the beach and can be a risk for the users. During recent years this process has increased and, especially in the summer, a big part of the intertidal profile of the West part of the beach shows a gravely and rocky profile.In 2003, the town council of San Sebastian entrusted AZTI Foundation with the study of this beach. For this purpose AZTI planned the data analysis and the morphodynamic study of the evolution of the beach in three different time scales, in order to clarify whether the recent problems at the beach are an increasing erosive process, or part of a natural cycle.The three different time scales of analysis of morphodynamic processes taking place in this beach are:-Short term scale: wave data measurement and analysis, modeling of wave, current and sediment transport.-Medium term scale: analysis of seasonal equilibrium shape and profile.-Long term scale: analysis of morphodynamic evolution of the whole system (the bay). This analysis has contributed to the management of the beach, implying artificial seasonal sand movements, trying to encompass the natural processes and shoreline protection with the recreational use of the beach.

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Shorerise and bar‐berm profiles on ocean beaches

Cited by 129 publications

References 25 publications

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

Short-Term Assessment of Retreating vs. Advancing Microtidal Beaches Based on the Backshore/Foreshore Length Ratio: Examples from the Basilicata Coasts (Southern Italy)

Morphodynamic study of the Ondarreta Beach in San Sebastian (Spain)

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