Self-sewn identity: How female home sewers use garment sewing to control self-presentation

Abstract

Garment sewing was once a necessity for women to present themselves and their families in a socially acceptable manner. Despite societal and economics changes, as well as, an abundance of readily available cheap clothing, there is a resurging interest in personal garment sewing by women. This qualitative study explored the control gained by women who sew their own clothing finding that among the women interviewed personal garment sewing allowed them control over their clothing’s style, fit, and quality, which was not found through purchasing ready-to-wear clothes. Garment sewing permitted these women to present themselves in clothing that they felt more accurately represented their personality and taste. These findings provide insights into the usage of garment sewing by women to control their appearance which allowed them more authority over their clothing selection than their non-sewing peers. Validation of the women’s time spent sewing was established as the findings postulate noteworthy benefits that include increased satisfaction with both their appearance and their presentation of self to others. The findings are explained using theories related to self-presentation and identity.

The role of nostalgia in retro sewing

“…These consumers (retro sewers) actively rework and transform symbolic meanings found in both new and vintage material goods (patterns, fabrics, and notions) to further their retro identity and lifestyle goals. Building upon the work of Martindale and McKinney (2018), we find that retro sewers desires for a counterculture identity and lifestyle are enabled by their sewing skills. Rather than depending on existing marketplace clothing offerings, they can create the clothes to achieve the look that matches their desired identity and lifestyle.…”

“…Retro sewers use marketer-produced fabrics, sewing patterns, and related items to create clothing that either replicates or is inspired by past fashions (typically 1920s through 1980s), to be worn for everyday use. Martindale and McKinney (2018) found that women who sew eschew typical retail-based consumption choices and behaviors. They sew to control their visual identity, including clothing style, fit, and quality.…”

“…, to be worn for everyday use. Martindale and McKinney (2018) found that women who sew eschew typical retail-based consumption choices and behaviors. They sew to control their visual identity, including clothing style, fit, and quality.…”

“So Weird and So Fabulous”: Expression of Identity in Retro Sewing

“…Home sewers choose to sew their own clothing as a means of self-empowerment to control their appearance as well as a creative outlet (Martindale & McKinney, 2018). Retro sewers, who sew their own versions of historic styles to wear as part of their everyday lives, represent a unique intersection between the vintage clothing market and the home sewing market.…”