Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing

Abstract

Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a "best ascent", rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6 ± 3.4 and 22.0 ± 3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability.

Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance

“…All testing sessions were conducted in an environmentally controlled exercise physiology laboratory. Upon reporting to the laboratory, each participant filled out forms for determination of health history, informed consent, demographic data, and self-reported red-point climbing ability using a self-report method previously validated by Draper et al (2011b). Finally, oxidative capacity index was assessed using near infra-red spectroscopy (NIRS).…”

“…Draper et al (2011b) examined the validity of this method by asking twenty-nine competitive rock climbers of varying abilities to self-report their best on-sight performance before being asked to climb a competition route. The route increased in difficulty and the distance achieved by the climbers denoted the grade achieved, similar to that seen in competition.…”

Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers

“…Consequently a total of 38 participants were categorised into the four groups: control (n = 9), intermediate (n = 9), advanced (n = 10) and elite (n = 10) ( Table 1). Participants were placed into the ability groups defined by Draper et al (2011a), using the self-report methods described and validated by Draper et al (2011b).…”

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

“…Rock climbing is an increasingly popular recreational and competitive sport, with a growing research base (Watts, 2004;España Romero, 2009;Draper et al, 2011a;Baláš et al, 2014). As the sport has developed the number of disciplines has increased and now includes such diverse activities as mountaineering, big wall climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing, sport climbing, traditional climbing, ice climbing and mixed climbing (MacLeod et al, 2007).…”