Sea state observation in island-sheltered nearshore zone based on in situ intermediate-water wave measurements and NCEP/CFSR wind data

Dora, G. Udhaba; Kumar, V. Sanil

doi:10.1007/s10236-015-0822-1

Cited by 14 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…The spread of spectral energy to higher frequencies (0.15 to 0.25 Hz) is predominant during January-May (Fig. 5) due to the sea breeze in the pre-monsoon period (Neetu et al, 2006;Dora and Sanil Kumar, 2015). In the monsoon during the wave growth period, the spectral peak shifts from 0.12-0.13 to 0.07-0.09 Hz (lower frequencies).…”

Section: Wave Spectrummentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Sanil Kumar et al (2014) observed that in the eastern AS, the wave spectral shapes are different at two locations within a 350 km distance, even though the difference in the integrated parameters like H m0 is marginal. Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) observed that waves at 7 m of water depth in the nearshore zone off Karwar are highenergy waves in the monsoon period and low to moderate waves in the non-monsoon period (January to May and October to December). The Dora and Sanil study shows a similar contribution of wind-seas and swells during the pre-monsoon period (February to May), while swells dominate the wind-sea in the post-monsoon period (October to January) and the monsoon period.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Nair

Kumar

2017

Ocean Sci.

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Abstract. An understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters of the eastern Arabian Sea using the moored directional waverider buoy are examined to determine the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. Over an annual cycle for 31.15 % of the time, the peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz; the significant wave height is also relatively high ( ∼ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June-September) compared to other months, and it increases with an increase in significant wave height. There is not much interannual variation in the slope for swell-dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have a high level of influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the exponent of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum is within the range of −4 to −3 during the monsoon period, the Donelan spectrum shows a better fit for the high-frequency part of the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

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Section: Wave Spectrummentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Nair

Kumar

2017

Ocean Sci.

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“…Sanil Kumar et al (2014) observed that in the eastern AS, the wave spectral shapes are different at two locations within 350 km distance, even though the difference in the integrated parameter like H m0 is marginal. Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) observed that waves at 7-m water depth in the nearshore zone off Karwar are high energy waves in the monsoon and low to moderate waves in the non-monsoon period. Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) study shows similar contribution of wind-seas and swells during the pre-monsoon (February to May), while swells dominate the wind-sea in the post-monsoon (October to January) and the monsoon period.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) observed that waves at 7-m water depth in the nearshore zone off Karwar are high energy waves in the monsoon and low to moderate waves in the non-monsoon period. Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) study shows similar contribution of wind-seas and swells during the pre-monsoon (February to May), while swells dominate the wind-sea in the post-monsoon (October to January) and the monsoon period. Earlier studies indicate that the spectral tail of the high-frequency part shows large variation and its variation with seasons are not known.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar, west coast of India

Nair¹,

Kumar²

2017

Preprint

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Abstract. Understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters are examined to know the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. For 31.15 % of the time, peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz and the significant wave height is also relatively high (~ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months and it increases with increase in significant wave height. There is no much interannual variation in slope for swell dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have much influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the high-frequency slope of the wave spectrum is within the range 3–4 during the monsoon period, Donelan spectrum shows better fit for the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

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“…The contribution of swells in the measured data varied from 46 to 60 % in the eastern AS (Sanil . Wave characteristics in the nearshore zone of Karwar, eastern AS was studied by Dora and Sanil Kumar (2015) and observed equal proportion of swells and wind-seas during February-May. When waves travel towards the coast, the wave characteristics change due to refraction, shoaling, diffraction, dissipation due to friction, dissipation due to percolation, breaking, additional growth due to the wind, wave-current interaction and wave-wave interactions.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Changes in nearshore waves during the active sea/land breeze period off Vengurla, central west coast of India

2016

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Abstract.A unique feature observed in the tropical and subtropical coastal area is the diurnal sea-breeze/land-breeze cycle. We examined the nearshore waves at 5 and 15 m water depth during the active sea/land breeze period (JanuaryApril) in the year 2015 based on the data measured using the waverider buoys moored in the eastern Arabian sea off Vengurla, central west coast of India. Temporal variability of diurnal wave response is examined. Numerical model Delft3D is used to study the nearshore wave transformation. The wave height increased due to the sea breeze and reached its peak at ∼ 13:00 UTC at 15 m water depth, whereas the peak significant wave height is at 12:00 UTC at 5 m water depth. Due to the influence of the land/sea breeze system, the range of the peak wave period in 1 day varied up to 8 s. Reduction in the wave height of wind-sea is around 20 % and that of the swell is around 10 % from 15 to 5 m water depth.

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Sea state observation in island-sheltered nearshore zone based on in situ intermediate-water wave measurements and NCEP/CFSR wind data

Cited by 14 publications

References 33 publications

Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar, west coast of India

Changes in nearshore waves during the active sea/land breeze period off Vengurla, central west coast of India

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