Role of copper in photochemical damage to hair

Marsh, Jennifer; Iveson, R.; Flagler, Michael J.; Davis, Michael; Newland, Abby B.; Greis, Kenneth D.; Sun, Yiping; Chaudhary, Tanuja; Aistrup, E. R.

doi:10.1111/ics.12088

Cited by 19 publications

(22 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…The data strongly suggest that copper ions increase •OH radical photogeneration in hair under wet conditions. This result supports previous studies, which showed that copper ions in hair adsorbed from tap water increased the degree of damage caused by sunlight, in particular by increasing the amount of protein lost from hair during shampooing .…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 92%

UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators

Millington

Marsh

2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (terephthalate) and free radical photoyellowing, were used. These methods utilized different UV sources and reaction conditions, and so can give insights into the different mechanisms of action occurring during UV oxidation of hair. In addition, this study demonstrates how antioxidants and chelators can be screened to determine whether they can protect hair from UV damage. Results The three methods gave somewhat different results, illustrating the importance of reaction conditions and wavelength on the photochemical mechanisms, and the efficacy of additives to influence these reactions. EPR results showed that N‐acetylcysteine (NAC) pre‐treatment eliminated the intensity of the signal because of sulphur and carbon free radicals in white hair both before and after exposure to UVB radiation. Doping the hair with copper ions had no effect on the intensity of the EPR signal under dry conditions. Terephthalate fluorescent probe data showed that under wet conditions, irradiation of white hair with UVA produced significant amounts of hydroxyl radicals. Pre‐treatment of hair with NAC reduced the number of •OH radicals produced by natural white hair compared to an untreated control. In contrast to the EPR result, white hair doped with copper ions produced significantly higher levels of •OH radicals under wet conditions. It appears that the ability of copper ions to catalyse the photogeneration free radicals in hair is highly dependent on water content. Photoyellowing data showed a benefit for oxalic acid but no difference for NAC and an increase in yellowing for EDTA. Conclusion The micro‐EPR and terephthalate fluorescent probe methods are both effective techniques to study production of free radicals by hair exposed to UV light under wet and dry conditions, respectively. Both assays are simple methods for determining the effectiveness of potential protective hair treatments against UV damage, but because they assess free radical damage under dry vs wet conditions, the chemistry created on UV exposure is different. This gives insights into mechanism of action, but results may not be consistent between the two methods for actives added for reduction of UV damage. NAC pre‐treatment did reduce free radical generation in UV‐exposed hair under both wet and dry conditions. Photoyellowing data are more complicated as it is a less direct measure of UV damage and is highly dependent on irradiation source. Using UVB irradiation is experimentally convenient but may not be appropriate, because UVB wavelengths comprise only 0.3% of terrestrial sunlight. The photochemistry of hair exposed to sunlight involves concurrent photobleaching and photoyellowing processes and is far more complex. Under UVB irradiation condit...

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 92%

UV damage to hair and the effect of antioxidants and metal chelators

Millington

Marsh

2020

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…Recently, Marsh et al . investigated the role of low levels of redox metals such as copper in accelerating damage to hair on exposure to UV irradiation.…”

Section: Post‐emerging Factors: Oxidative Stress From Uvr and In Dandmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Recently, Marsh et al [29] investigated the role of low levels of redox metals such as copper in accelerating damage to hair on exposure to UV irradiation. The methods used were proteomics to measure the protein damage via protein loss after different periods of exposure and mass spectroscopy methods to identify marker peptides that are specifically created by this type of damage.…”

Section: Effects Of Uvr (Photodamage)mentioning

confidence: 99%

The impact of oxidative stress on hair

Trüeb¹

2015

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Oxidative stress reflects an imbalance between the systemic manifestation of reactive oxygen species and a biological system's ability to detoxify the reactive intermediates or to repair the resulting damage. Reactive oxygen species or free radicals are highly reactive molecules that can directly damage lipids, proteins, and DNA. They are generated by a multitude of endogenous and environmental challenges, while the body possesses endogenous defense mechanisms. With age, production of free radicals increases, while the endogenous defense mechanisms decrease. This imbalance leads to progressive damage of cellular structures, presumably resulting in the aging phenotype. While the role of oxidative stress has been widely discussed in skin aging, little focus has been placed on its impact on hair condition. Moreover, most literature on age-related hair changes focuses on alopecia, but it is equally important that the hair fibers that emerge from the scalp exhibit significant agerelated changes that have equal impact on the overall cosmetic properties of hair. Sources of oxidative stress with impact on the pre-emerging fiber include: oxidative metabolism, smoking, UVR, and inflammation from microbial, pollutant, or irritant origins. Sources of oxidative stress with impact on the post-emerging fiber include: UVR (enhanced by copper), chemical insults, and oxidized scalp lipids. The role of the dermatologist is recognition and treatment of pre-and post-emerging factors for lifetime scalp and hair health.R esum e Le stress oxydatif refl ete un d es equilibre entre la manifestation syst emique des d eriv es r eactifs de l'oxyg ene et la capacit e d'un syst eme biologique a d etoxifier les interm ediaires r eactifs ou a r eparer les dommages en r esultant. Les d eriv es r eactifs de l'oxyg ene ou « radicaux libres » sont des mol ecules hautement r eactives qui peuvent endommager directement les lipides, les prot eines et l'ADN. Ils sont g en er es par une multitude de d efis environnementaux et endog enes, tandis que le corps poss ede des m ecanismes de d efense endog enes. Avec l'âge, la production de radicaux libres augmente, pendant que les m ecanismes de d efense endog enes diminuent. Ce d es equilibre conduit a la d et erioration progressive des structures cellulaires, r esultant vraisemblablement dans le ph enotype de vieillissement. Bien que le rôle du stress oxydatif ait et e largement discut e dans le contexte du vieillissement de la peau, peu d'attention a et e accord ee a son impact sur l' etat des cheveux. En outre, la plupart des etudes sur les changements des cheveux li ee a l'âge se concentre sur l'alop ecie, mais il est tout aussi important que les fibres capillaires qui emergent du cuir chevelu pr esentent des changements importants li es a l'âge qui ont aussi un impact sur les propri et es cosm etiques des cheveux. Les sources de stress oxydatif avec un impact sur la fibre capillaire pr e-emergence comprennent: le m etabolisme oxydatif, le tabagisme, les rayons UV, l'inflammation d'origine microb...

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“…Previously published work showed that addition of a chelant such as N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid can reduce the level of copper in hair when it is added to a shampoo [8]. An attempt to formulate this chelant into a conditioner was unfortunately not possible due to the chelant's high negative charge, which led to instability of the conditioner's gel network structure.…”

Section: Removal Of Copper From Hairmentioning

confidence: 99%