Review on oral plant extracts in Skin Whitening

WANG, Bo; An, Xiaohong; Qu, Liping; WANG, Feifei

doi:10.1590/fst.83922

Cited by 5 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 92 publications

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“…Moreover, of the wide uses of Paeonia's species as important ornamental and medicinal crops, very recent results on the seeds of Chinese paeonies of the Moutan section propose paeonies' seeds as strong skin whitening agents through both oral and external use support the health and anti-aging of skin [54,55]. The two studied species contain the luteolin-glucopyranosides (luteolin-3 -O-β-D-glucopyranoside and luteolin-3 ,4 -di-O-β-Dglucopyranoside) which are mentioned in the literature for the second time in Paeonia sp (isolated and determined previously by our group, from seeds of the Greek Paeonia clusii subsp.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chemical Profiling on Bioactive Stilbenoids in the Seeds of Paeonia Species Growing Wild in Greece

Dimitropoulou,

Graikou,

Klontza

et al. 2023

Separations

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The seeds of Paeonia clusii Stern subsp. clusii and Paeonia mascula (L.) Mill. subsp. mascula growing wild in Greece, though not previously investigated, has been studied as a source of bioactive stilbenoids and other phenolics. Their methanol extracts were analyzed using ultra high-performance liquid chromatography—high-resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS), and among the identified metabolites (62), 19 paeoniflorin’s derivatives, 17 flavonoids and 12 stilbenes were detected. Moreover, through classic phytochemical separation procedures, twelve among them were isolated and fully spectrally determined as trans-resveratrol, trans-resveratrol-4′-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, cis-resveratrol-4′-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, trans-gnetin-H, trans-ε-viniferin, luteolin, luteolin-3′-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, luteolin-3′,4′-di-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, apigenin, hispidulin, paeoniflorin and benzoyl-paeoniflorin. All seed extracts were measured for their total phenolic content (TPC), appearing as a rich source (116.04 and 103.63 mg GAE/g extract, respectively), followed by free radical (DPPH) scavenging capacity (75.24% and 91.54% inhibition at the concentration of 200 μg/mL). The evaluation of tyrosinase inhibition for both extracts (61% and 70%, respectively) confirmed the potential for their future application in skin health care, comparable with other paeonies of Chinese origin, which are well-known as skin whitening and anti-aging promoters.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chemical Profiling on Bioactive Stilbenoids in the Seeds of Paeonia Species Growing Wild in Greece

Dimitropoulou,

Graikou,

Klontza

et al. 2023

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“…(2) Antioxidant Protection. Incorporating antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea extract alongside KDP can provide dual benefits [190][191][192][193]. This combination not only inhibits melanin production but also shields the skin from oxidative stress, helping to prevent premature aging and promoting an overall healthier complexion; (3) Moisture Retention and Hydration.…”

Section: Future Potential Of Kojic Acid Dipalmitatementioning

confidence: 99%

Nanotechnology-Enhanced Cosmetic Application of Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, a Kojic Acid Derivate with Improved Properties

Ayuhastuti,

Syah,

Megantara

et al. 2024

Cosmetics

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Kojic acid (KA) has emerged as a prominent tyrosinase inhibitor with considerable potential in cosmetic applications; however, its susceptibility to instability during storage poses a challenge to its widespread use. This review explores the advancements in addressing this limitation through the development of various KA derivatives, focusing on the modification of the C-7 hydroxyl group. Strategies such as esterification, hydroxy-phenyl ether formation, glycosylation, and incorporation into amino acid or tripeptide derivatives have been employed to enhance stability and efficacy. Among these derivatives, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KDP), a palmitic ester derivative of KA, stands out for its notable improvements in stability, permeability, and low toxicity. Recent developments indicate a growing utilization of KDP in cosmetic formulations, with over 132 available products on the market, encompassing various formulations. Formulations based on nanotechnology, which incorporate KDP, have been provided, including nanosomes, nanocreams, multiple emulsions, liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), ethosomes, and nanoemulsions. Additionally, three patents and seven advanced system deliveries of KDP further underscore its significance. Despite its increasing prevalence, the literature on KDP remains limited. This review aims to bridge this gap by providing insights into the synthesis process, physicochemical properties, pharmaceutical preparation, diverse applications of KDP in cosmetic products, and recent nanotechnology formulations of KDP. This review paper seeks to explore the recent developments in the use of KDP in cosmetics. The goal is to enhance stability, permeability, and reduce the toxicity of KA, with the intention of promoting future research in this promising sector.

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