Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments

Abstract

Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol. Since the biological activity of the substances differs, for the purpose of standardization, it is given in retinol equivalents. Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Retinoid activity is related to high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR – retinoid acid receptors and RXR – retinoid X receptors.

Recent Advances Regarding the Therapeutic Potential of Adapalene

“…After the discovery of specific retinoid receptors, the third generation was created with various chemical structures which have optimized the selective receptors binding [ 5 , 6 ]. Retinoid nuclear receptors group comprises retinoic acid receptors (RAR-retinoic acid is natural ligand), and retinoid X receptors (RXR-9-cis-retinoic acid is natural ligand) [ 7 ]. Recently was approved trifarotene, a fourth-generation representative.…”

Microbial lipases and their industrial applications: a comprehensive review

“…In makeups and pharmaceuticals like skin care products the abundant commercial potential of retinoids (Vitamin A and their derivatives) are found. In the catalytic reaction of immobilized lipase the water-soluble retinol derivatives were prepared [ 287 – 289 ]. And the lipases also used for the hair stressing provisions, and as a constituent of topical antiobese emulsions or as oral administration.…”

Synthetic Retinoid Seletinoid G Improves Skin Barrier Function through Wound Healing and Collagen Realignment in Human Skin Equivalents

“…In skin, retinoids promote keratinocyte proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinase activity; thus, they have an anti-aging effect on skin. Topical retinoids have been shown to prevent and repair clinical features of both intrinsic aging and photo-aging [8][9][10][11].…”