Reliable and simple spectrophotometric determination of sun protection factor: A case study using organic <scp>UV</scp> filter‐based sunscreen products

Yang, Soo In; Liu, Shuanghui; Brooks, Geoffrey J; Lanctot, Yves; Gruber, James V.

doi:10.1111/jocd.12390

Cited by 19 publications

(15 citation statements)

References 15 publications

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“…These good correlations of results for commercial sunscreen oils obtained by two different methods in two country laboratories for six commercial sunscreens used as controls confirm the credibility of performing the Mansur's method in this study. A good agreement between the SPF values for products with SPF ≥ 6 determined by Mansur's in vitro methodology and the in vivo methodology has also been found in other studies [30,[35][36][37][38][39]. Unlike the special spectrophotometer required for the in vitro PMMA plate method, only a standard laboratory spectrophotometer is sufficient for this in vitro dilution method.…”

Section: In Vitro Spf and In Vivo Spf Of Commercial Sunscreen Oilssupporting

confidence: 73%

The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

Ácsová

Hojerová

Janotková

et al. 2021

Photochem Photobiol Sci

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Some vegetable oils are currently being promoted as a safe alternative to commercial sunscreens. The true UVB photoprotective efficacy of 14 virgin vegetable oils and the suitability of the dilution method for determining their SPF value were evaluated. Oils and standard sunscreens were investigated in vitro by the Mansur's method in Slovakia and in vivo by the ISO method in the Czech Republic. SPF values in vitro (0.1; 0.0; 0.4; 0.2 and 0.2) and in vivo (2.5; 1.2; 2.6; 2.6; and 2.8) of the five most promoted oils (from carrot seed, coconut, raspberry seed, rosehip seed, and wheat germ) were significantly lower than the values reported in the controversial studies. We have shown that the overestimated SPF values of these oils were determined by authors who did not strictly follow Mansur's original methodology. The other eight vegetable oils also provide no or negligible SPF values. Only the in vitro SPF value of 11.2 tamanu oil is worth mentioning, probably due to high proportion of calophyllolides. In vitro and in vivo SPF ratios from 1.14 to 0.94 obtained by two methods in two laboratories for six commercial sunscreen oils used as controls confirm the correctness of performing the Mansur's method in this study. However, this dilution method has proven to be fundamentally flawed in determining the SPF value of substances with such negligible photoprotection as most vegetable oils can provide. An SPF value of less than 1, which can be determined by this Mansur's method, is physiologically impossible and meaningless.

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Section: In Vitro Spf and In Vivo Spf Of Commercial Sunscreen Oilssupporting

confidence: 73%

The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

Ácsová

Hojerová

Janotková

et al. 2021

Photochem Photobiol Sci

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“…In the range 290-305 nm, the UV-absorbing capacity of formulations containing BPO and PMG was greater than that of the corresponding vehicles without vegetable oils. UV absorbance data in the range 290-320 nm were used to calculate in vitro SPF values as previously reported by others [39,40]. As shown in Table 5, the in vitro SPF value of the formulation Bc2 was higher than that of Ac2 due to its higher BEMT content.…”

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confidence: 99%

Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations

Montenegro

Santagati

2019

Cosmetics

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Some vegetable oils have many biological properties, including UV-absorbing capacity. Therefore, their use has been suggested to reduce the content of organic UV-filters in sunscreen products. In this work, we investigated the feasibility of developing oil-based vehicles with a high sun protection factor (SPF) using pomegranate oil (PMG) and shea oil (BPO) in association with different percentages of organic UV-filters (octyl– methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and bemotrizinol). We characterized the spreadability, occlusion factor, pH, and required hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the resulting formulations, and did not observe relevant differences due to the incorporation of vegetable oils. The in vitro spectrophotometric determinations of SPF values highlighted that the addition of BPO (1% (w/w)) and PMG (1% (w/w)) resulted in an increase in SPF in comparison with the same formulations that contained only organic UV-filters. The SPF increase was more significant for the formulations that contained lower amounts of organic UV-filters. The results of this study supported the hypothesis that including suitable vegetable oils in sunscreen formulations could be a promising strategy to design products with a lower content of organic UV-filters.

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“…The SPF was determined In Vitro by spectrophotometer, as described by Yang et al [34]. Pterostilbene was dissolved at a concentration of 2 mg/mL in ethanol (0.2%) followed by ultrasonication for 5 min and then filtered.…”

Section: In Vitro Evaluation Of the Sun Protection Factor By Uv Spectmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It has also shown its potential UVB protection activity through the expression of antioxidant enzymes in UVB induced oxidative stress [33]. The sun protection factor (SPF) is the most critical data to quantify the effectiveness of sunscreens, which is universally accepted [34]. The present study aimed to determine the SPF of the 90% natural pterostilbene as an ingredient and in a cream formulation In Vitro and in vivo in human volunteers.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The present study aimed to determine the SPF of the 90% natural pterostilbene as an ingredient and in a cream formulation In Vitro and in vivo in human volunteers. The sun protection factor (SPF) is the most critical data to quantify the effectiveness of sunscreens, which is universally accepted [34]. The present study aimed to determine the SPF of the 90% natural pterostilbene as an ingredient and in a cream formulation In Vitro and in vivo in human volunteers.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A Randomized Study to Determine the Sun Protection Factor of Natural Pterostilbene from Pterocarpus Marsupium

Majeed

Jain

et al. 2020

Cosmetics

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Ultraviolet (UV) rays and its harmful effects have always been a concern to skin health. Sunscreen and sunblock prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is an indication of the sun-protective capacity of an ingredient. There is an ever increasing interest in the cosmetic industry for developing novel functional ingredients from natural sources. The purpose of this study was to determine in-vitro and in vivo SPF of natural 90% pterostilbene extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium (Indian Kino). The SPF of purified pterostilbene and a formulation containing 0.4% pterostilbene was determined In Vitro using a UV spectrophotometer. Pterostilbene had an SPF of 21.73 ± 0.06, while the cream formulation had an SPF of 8.84 ± 0.01. The in vivo SPF of the 0.4% pterostilbene cream in humans was found to be 6.2 ± 1.30. Primary skin irritation tests in human subjects showed the formulation was safe and had no irritation potential. Pterostilbene was also found to have significant antioxidant activity as determined by free radical scavenging assays in vitro. These results suggest that natural pterostilbene is an antioxidant and shows SPF value both in-vitro and in the human clinical study and thus could be used as an ingredient in topical sun-protective formulations.

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Reliable and simple spectrophotometric determination of sun protection factor: A case study using organic UV filter‐based sunscreen products

Cited by 19 publications

References 15 publications

The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies

Use of Vegetable Oils to Improve the Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreen Formulations

A Randomized Study to Determine the Sun Protection Factor of Natural Pterostilbene from Pterocarpus Marsupium

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