Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance

Bergen, Nikki Geerte van; Soekarjo, Kasper; Kamp, John van der; Orth, Dominic

doi:10.1080/02701367.2022.2035662

Cited by 5 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 48 publications

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“…For example, “pain-threshold” rehabilitation has demonstrated some better outcomes than traditional “pain-free” intervention (at least during lower limb muscle strain rehabilitation). 42 Finally, strength/skill training of different grip types, other than only full crimp, might support a more rapid/safe return to high-intensity in situ training and, in doing so, potentially ameliorate persistent postinjury strength deficits (as discussed previously 27 ).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 94%

“…To measure the grip strength of the participants, a previously validated and reliable climbing-specific hand grip dynamometer 27 was used (Figure 1a). The system measures the force applied by the climber while using the hands in a climbing-specific manner.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The participants in the healthy group were followed up after 1 wk to confirm test-retest reliability in field settings (noting the system’s reliability had been established in a laboratory setting 27 ). The MVC and RFD tests were repeated for each hand using the above-mentioned procedures by the same operator.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

Orth

Slebioda

Cavada

et al. 2023

Wilderness & Environmental Medicine

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 94%

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

Orth

Slebioda

Cavada

et al. 2023

Wilderness & Environmental Medicine

Self Cite

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“…In addition, individual anthropometric factors such as fingertip pulp may influence strength measurements. A recent study by van Bergen et al ( 176 ) suggest to conduct finger strength testing and training with different holds and body positions.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

Langer

Simon

Wiemeyer

2023

Front. Sports Act. Living

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Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

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“…Les méthodes utilisées pour mesurer la performance d'athlètes en escalade de difficulté s'appuient sur des tests de force [26,46], ou des tests biométriques [2] ou physiologiques [38] a priori ou a posteriori des performances. Instrumenter les athlètes permet de capturer l'accélération de certaines articulations au cours de l'ascension pour pouvoir identifier certains types de mouvements [3,11,19], ou bien des données biométriques qui peuvent être combinées avec des vidéos pour mieux identifier à quoi correspondent certains changements dans les données [5].…”

Section: Mesures De La Performance En Escalade De Difficultéunclassified

Design Study of a Data Analysis Tool for Lead Climbing

Fruchard,

Maszewski,

Avezou

2024

Proceedings of the 35th Conference on l'Interaction Humain-Machine

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Nous présentons une étude de conception d'un outil d'analyse de données de performances d'escalade de difficulté créé en collaboration avec la Fédération Française Montagne Escalade (FFME). Son but est de faciliter l'exploration d'un jeu de données pour identifier de nouveaux indicateurs de la performance et mieux entraîner les athlètes français•es. Des entretiens réguliers nous ont permis d'identifier les besoins des analystes et de concevoir un système robuste auquel ils ont accès constamment. L'analyse thématique des transcriptions de deux journées d'évaluation avec l'entraîneuse nationale ont souligné l'importance d'accéder aux vidéos des performances pour visionner des passages clés, le besoin de naviguer entre plusieurs types d'analyse et de niveaux d'informations, et l'intérêt de s'appuyer sur des données qualitatives issues du ressenti des athlètes pour mieux comprendre leurs choix. Nous détaillons nos choix de conception et exposons les solutions implémentées dans le but de guider la conception de systèmes d'analyse de performances sportives.

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Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance

Cited by 5 publications

References 48 publications

Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

Design Study of a Data Analysis Tool for Lead Climbing

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