Relative Contribution of Wave Setup to the Storm Surge: Observations and Modeling Based Analysis in Open and Protected Environments (Truc Vert beach and Tubuai island)

Pedreros, Rodrigo; Idier, Déborah; Müller, Héloïse; Lecacheux, Sophie; Paris, François; Yates-Michelin, M.; Dumas, Franck; Pineau‐Guillou, Lucia; Sénéchal, Nadia

doi:10.2112/si85-210.1

Cited by 26 publications

(25 citation statements)

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“…Wave setup is proportional to the offshore significant wave height and can contribute to elevated water levels that are an appreciable fraction (20-30%) of the incident deep water significant wave height. The magnitude of setup can be estimated if one has either measured or modelled wave data and has knowledge of coastal bathymetry (e.g., Stockdon et al 2006;Dietrich et al 2009;Melet et al 2016;Marsooli and Lin 2018;Pedreros et al 2018). Spatial gradients in wave setup, due, for example, to variations in breaker height, can cause local circulations such as rip currents.…”

Section: Wave Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Forcing Factors Affecting Sea Level Changes at the Coast

et al. 2019

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We review the characteristics of sea level variability at the coast focussing on how it differs from the variability in the nearby deep ocean. Sea level variability occurs on all timescales, with processes at higher frequencies tending to have a larger magnitude at the coast due to resonance and other dynamics. In the case of some processes, such as the tides, the presence of the coast and the shallow waters of the shelves results in the processes being considerably more complex than offshore. However, 'coastal variability' should not always be considered as 'short spatial scale variability' but can be the result of signals transmitted along the coast from 1000s km away. Fortunately, thanks to tide gauges being necessarily located at the coast, many aspects of coastal sea level variability can be claimed to be better understood than those in the deep ocean. Nevertheless, certain aspects of coastal variability remain under-researched, including how changes in some processes (e.g., wave setup, river runoff) may have contributed to the historical mean sea level records obtained from tide gauges which are now used routinely in large-scale climate research.

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Section: Wave Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Forcing Factors Affecting Sea Level Changes at the Coast

et al. 2019

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“…Guza and Thornton, 1981;Holman and Sallenger, 1985;Raubenheimer et al 2001;Apotsos et al 2007, Nicolae-Lerma et al 2017Guérin et al 2018). Wave setup can exceed 1 m under storm waves (Pedreros et al 2018;Guérin et al 2018;Dodet et al 2018) and can therefore have a relevant contribution in storm surges. As a rough guideline, wave setup along the shoreline of sandy beaches represent about 10 to 20 % of the significant wave height at the breaking point.…”

Section: Wave Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Along the coasts bordered by narrow continental shelves or at volcanic islands, wave setup can even represent the largest contribution of storms surges (e.g. Kennedy et al 2012;Bertin et al 2017;Pedreros et al 2018). Several studies also showed that the setup driven by wave breaking over the ebb deltas of shallow inlets (Malhadas et al 2009;Dodet et al 2013) and large estuaries (Bertin et al 2015;Fortunato et al 2017;Bertin et al 2017) could propagate outside surfzones and raise the water level at the scale of the whole lagoon/estuary.…”

Section: Wave Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Fortunato et al 2017 ; Tagus estuary, Portugal) or on wave dominated beaches (see e.g. Pedreros et al 2018;Truc Vert Beach, France). As an additional mechanism, we should note that in estuaries, the wave setup can be also amplified through a resonant process (Fortunato et al 2017).…”

Section: Interactions With Other Msl Related Processesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Indeed, wind generated waves accumulate and transport momentum across ocean basins and release it to the water column when they break in the shallow surf zone. The rapid decrease in momentum flux is compensated by a tilting of the water surface between the breakpoint and the waterline (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964), which can rise the time-averaged sea level at the waterline by up to 1 m (Pedreros et al 2018;Guérin et al 2018;Dodet et al 2018). This effect, called the wave setup, is modulated by long waves with periods of the order of one minute that travel at the speed of the wave groups and rapidly grow (from centimeters to decimeters) in the surf zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes

et al. 2019

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Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean-land-atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. In this review, we describe the physical processes by which sea states may affect coastal sea level at several timescales, we present the methods currently used to estimate the wave contribution to coastal sea-level changes, we describe past and future wave climate variability, we discuss the contribution of wave to coastal sea-level changes, and we discuss the limitations and perspectives of this research field.

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