a g g e r ;THE LITERATURE concerning the combination of textile fibers with acids and dyes shows that, although a considerable amount of reliable data are available, the subject is in a confused state: numerous apparent discrepancies exist and no clear explanation has been given for the wide variety of observed effects. It is the purpose of this paper to show that the whole range of the phenomena concerned can be satisfactorily accounted for in terms of accepted concepts of the structure of electrical double layers. The argument will be developed with reference to wool, but it will be a simple matter to extend it to other fibers.
Structure of the Wool FiberModern optical and electron-microscopic work [30~ has proved that wool has a complex morphological structure comprising exterior scales, an underlying thin membrane [14], interior elongated cortical cells, and microfibrils connected together by amorphous material. Although the scales obstruct the entry of dyes [2 7 ~ and contain a somewhat greater proportion of cystine [8~, they show electrophoretic behavior identical with that of the cortical cells [20]. For the present purpose, it is not necessary to take the morphological structure into account and the wet fiber may be regarded simply as an infinite homogeneous cylinder having molecular channels of relatively large dimensions, the existence of which is amply proved by the ability of large molecules to penetrate into the fiber.The polypeptide chains with their variety of side chains, having inter alia -NH2 and -COOH groups, are held in position by hydrogen bonds [3ã nd disulfide links. There can be no doubt from the clear findings of Speakman [24~ on the mechanical properties of wool as a function of pH that at the isoelectric point of the wool (defined by zero electrokinetic potential) the amino and carboxyl 1 groups exist largely in the zwitterion condition, -NH3+...-OOC-. The fact that addition of neutral salts has no influence on the extensibility [25~ proves that the two groups are very close together, forming the so-called &dquo;salt link,&dquo; which may be pictured as a dipole. It is, perhaps, more than a coincidence of nature that the amino and carboxyl groups are present in equal numbersapproximately 0.8-0.9 equivalents per kg. of drv wool. X-ray diffraction patterns of wool fibers show that their degree of crystallinity is appreciable [2~.