Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

McGregor, B. A.; Naebe, Maryam; Stanton, John; Speijers, Jane; Beilby, John; Pieruzzini, Sara; Tester, David

doi:10.1080/00405000.2013.780764

Cited by 24 publications

(74 citation statements)

References 9 publications

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“…18 Previously, the main attribute of wool fibers known to reduce prickle discomfort was reducing the MFD of the wool. 7,13,17,18,23 In those works no other measureable attribute of wool fibers, such as fiber curvature or the incidence of fibers coarser than 30 mm (''prickle factor'') were significant determinants of assessed prickle discomfort. The present work, using a designed experiment, aimed to examine if another wool property, wool fiber curvature (crimp), affected wearer perception while controlling the MFD to $17 mm.…”

Section: Participants Differentiate Between Wool Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…The Wool ComfortMeter has been validated with wearer assessments of prickle discomfort using fabrics composed of wool, wool/cashmere blends, cashmere, cotton and polyester fibers with differing MFD. 13 Fabric sleeve trial assessment Fabrics were made into sleeves for evaluation following a wearer trial protocol that involved variations in the activity and climate conditions, as described by Doyle et al 39 In brief, the protocol involved a 30 minute circuit training session at a women's gym with variations in resistance and recovery exercises. This approach provided 77 individual assessments using a total of 38 different participants.…”

Section: Spinning Knitting and Testingmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It was shown that the prickle discomfort of wearers is most related to the MFD (which varied from 13.8 to 21.2 mm), with prickle discomfort declining to a minimum at MFDs less than 17.5 mm, where prickle sensations are absent or barely perceptible under the average conditions of the test protocol. 13,18 In these studies there was no statistical evidence that the incidence of fibers coarser than 30 mm explained any further variance in wearerassessed prickle discomfort above that explained by the MFD. The incidence of coarser fibers, particularly those identified by the so-called ''comfort factor'', which refers to the percentage of fibers in the fiber diameter distribution histogram that are less than a diameter of 30 mm, has been reported to be responsible for causing fabric-evoked prickle in a few experimental lots of wool.…”

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confidence: 94%

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Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

McGregor

Doughty

Thompson

et al. 2015

Textile Research Journal

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Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 mm superfine wool of low (74 /mm) or high (114 /mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 mm cashmere (fiber curvature 49 /mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

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Section: Participants Differentiate Between Wool Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 98%

Section: Spinning Knitting and Testingmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 94%

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Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

McGregor

Doughty

Thompson

et al. 2015

Textile Research Journal

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“…While WCM alone explained the 69.2 % of the variance, the MFD alone accounted the 72.3 % of the variance in the log 10 of weighted prickle score and when used together, WCM and MFD explained 79.6% of the variance. 11 With the current fabric set (n ¼ 33), WCM alone explained 68.5% of the variance, MFD alone 74.8% of the variance in the log 10 of weighted prickle score, and using MFD and the WCM explained 80.3% of the variance in wearer trial prickle score. This indicates that while we had reduced our data set by excluding the thicker fabrics, the relationships between the main attributes of interest had remained essentially the same.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Relationships between sleeve trial and wearer trial assessment of discomfort and objective measurements

McGregor

Doyle

Thompson³

et al. 2014

Textile Research Journal

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The relationships were investigated between the prickle discomfort scores, assessed by human response from wearer trial garment assessment, and sleeve trial, Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) and Wool HandleMeter (WHM) assessments of fabrics, and fiber diameter characteristics including mean fiber diameter (MFD). Sleeve trial assessment followed exercise, the use of a control sleeve to reduce participant variance and four sensory traits. WHM provides eight handle parameters calibrated against a panel of experts. Four scenarios were evaluated: sleeve trial assessment with MFD; sleeve trial assessment with MFD and WCM; sleeve trial assessment with MFD, WCM and WHM parameters; and sleeve trial assessment with WCM and WHM parameters. Data were analyzed using correlation and forward stepwise general linear modeling. There was no evidence that the incidence of fibers coarser than 30 mm aided the prediction of prickle discomfort once MFD had been accounted for in the models. There were significant correlations between the WCM measurement and each sleeve trial attribute. There was no significant correlation between WHM parameters and sleeve trial assessments. The sleeve trial attribute of 'skin feel' offers potential to improve the predictions made of wearer trial prickle discomfort when used in association of the WCM with or without data on fabric MFD. There was little evidence to support using WHM parameters with or without the WCM in predicting wearer assessed prickle discomfort of fabrics. These results indicate that the rapid evaluation of fabrics using sleeve trial assessment can provide cost effective ranking of consumer preferences.

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“…Though the instrument has been designed to predict the wool fabric-evoked prickle discomfort, the readings of the WCM have been shown to be correlated to the next-to-skin comfort assigned by wearers of other types of fibre. 10 The next-to-skin comfort of polyester fabric attached to the chest panel and inside the wetsuits was assessed according to the draft test method. 11 Each sample of 30 3 30 cm 2 was fixed on the testing board of the instrument and was subjected to 10 passes of the recording head.…”

Section: Sensorial Comfort Measurementsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessment of performance properties of wetsuits

Naebe

Robins

Wang

et al. 2013

Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part P:

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Wetsuits are an integral part of surfing especially in the southern regions of Australia. There is currently little information about mechanical, comfort and thermal properties of wetsuits. There is a demand from wetsuit manufacturers to better understand the neoprene properties and wetsuit performance. The performance characteristics of eight topselling wetsuits, from both high end and low end of the market, were examined. These characteristics include thickness, elasticity, bursting strength, hydrophobicity, thermal conductivity and seal strength. Tensile assessment revealed that neoprene foam was strong and its stretch recovery was well beyond 1.6 times of the original length. Neoprene was found to be hydrophobic with very low surface energy. High-end wetsuits with higher thickness showed slightly higher thermal resistance than low-end wetsuits, indicating that both thickness and bulk density of neoprene influenced thermal properties. High-end wetsuits with fluid seal were stronger than low-end wetsuits with stitched seal.

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Relationship between wearer prickle response with fibre and garment properties and Wool ComfortMeter assessment

Cited by 24 publications

References 9 publications

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Relationships between sleeve trial and wearer trial assessment of discomfort and objective measurements

Assessment of performance properties of wetsuits

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