Regionalism and the Institution of the Yucatecan Gastronomic Field

Ayora-Díaz, Steffan Igor

doi:10.2752/175174410x12699432700980

Cited by 15 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 18 publications

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“…2 Data as published by Soladoye et al [ 27 ]. 3 Data as published by CREA [ 31 ]. 4 Data as published by Osteria Fumetti [ 32 ].…”

Section: Figurementioning

confidence: 99%

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Morzeddhu: A Unique Example of a Traditional and Sustainable Typical Dish from Catanzaro

Alcaro,

Rocca,

Rotundo

et al. 2024

Foods

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“Morzeddhu” in the local dialect of Catanzaro (“Morzello” in Italian) is an official typical dish of the capital of the Calabria region. It is a peasant dish, almost unknown at an international level, that labels, in an extraordinary way, the culinary identity of Catanzaro, a city founded around the X century. After America’s discovery, its preparation was optimized and definitively fixed. Its recipe is strictly based on a cow’s “fifth quarter” combined with spicy and typical Mediterranean vegetables. Remarkably, no pork meat is used, and when all traditional ingredients are included in the complex and quite long preparation of this special dish, it can deserve the title of “Illustrissimo”. This review provides a scientific description of Illustrissimo, emphasizing its unique properties and connection to the circular economy, food security, and the Mediterranean diet. We also highlight its unique quality compared to other alternatives through an analysis of their nutritional facts and bioactive compounds. Nutritionally, offal and fifth quarter components are a rich source of high-quality protein, with lower levels of total fat and saturated fatty acids compared to other meat cuts. In essence, this dish offers a great example of a high-quality yet affordable meal, aligning perfectly with a Mediterranean diet.

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“…2 Data as published by Soladoye et al [ 27 ]. 3 Data as published by CREA [ 31 ]. 4 Data as published by Osteria Fumetti [ 32 ].…”

Section: Figurementioning

confidence: 99%

“…In Bulgaria, “shkembe chorba” stands out, differing from the Turkish variant mainly due to the addition of sweet milk [ 27 ]. In Latin America, “sopa de mondongo,” crafted from tripe and vegetables, enjoys popularity, though specific references would bolster this claim [ 29 , 30 , 31 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Morzeddhu: A Unique Example of a Traditional and Sustainable Typical Dish from Catanzaro

Alcaro,

Rocca,

Rotundo

et al. 2024

Foods

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“…For over two decades I have been studying the cooking and gastronomy of Yucatán, a Mexican state in the eastern peninsula of the same name. As I have been arguing, it is the preference for certain ingredients and their combination that root the identity of regional food, and has become, along with other forms of cultural representation, an important element in the foundation of the (hegemonic) identity of the state (Ayora-Diaz & Vargas Cetina, 2010;Ayora-Diaz, 2010Vargas Cetina, 2017). While the taste of food may seem to have an abstract and immaterial existence, taste is derived from the use of material ingredients and from the use of cooking instruments that achieve meals with the preferred aesthetic set of properties.…”

Section: Ingredients For "Tradition" and Changementioning

confidence: 99%

Processed Modernity: Cooking Ingredients and the Materiality of Food

Ayora-Díaz¹

2022

SAJ

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In this paper I examine the meanings and values articulated through the use of preserved and (ultra)processed foods in everyday cooking in Mérida, Yucatán. Most studies on the practices deployed in the kitchen have tended to focus on cooking instruments and appliances, as well as on the part played by cookbooks and other instruments in the reproduction of culinary knowledges and practices. In contrast, here I focus on the very ingredients used in by cooks, arguing that through their materiality and their aesthetics, cooking ingredients contribute to the objectification of local values. The choice of ingredients by one or another cook expresses values such as “modern” and cosmopolitan, and simultaneously support claims of “authenticity” and “tradition,” and thus are lived as constitutive of regional identity. The use of preserved and processed foods is a common practice in Yucatán’s domestic and restaurant kitchens, which, as elsewhere, has historical grounds. There have been in the city of Mérida, since the turn of the twentieth century, industrial plants making beer, cookies and crackers, vegetable oils, soda drinks, chili pepper sauces, and recados (different pastes of spices). More recently, local industries have begun to package local dishes to sell them frozen, canned or vacuum-packed in plastic containers. I argue that these ingredients are important in transforming the local taste of and for Yucatecan food, and that, as objects that receive and give meaning to regional culinary culture, they become an important locus for the discursive and praxis-based negotiations of local forms of “modernity.”

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“…10 As Ayora-Diaz points out with reference to Mexico, constructions of regional cuisines suppress certain local foodways in the same way that national cuisines celebrate some regional foods while excluding others. 11 So too in China, provincial cuisines tend to become known by a small set of typical foods, flavor combinations, and iconic dishes. Thus, Sichuan is recognized for its "numbing and spicy" (mala) flavors, Shanxi for its "vinegar" and "wheat noodles," Guangdong for its "clear and light" (qingdan) flavors and delicate dim sum (dianxin), and so on.…”

Section: Regional Cuisines and Local Foods In The Prcmentioning

confidence: 99%

Ambivalent Regionalism and the Promotion of a New National Staple Food: Reimagining Potatoes in Inner Mongolia and Yunnan

Klein

2020

Global Food History

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This article addresses the relationship between national, regional and local dimensions of Chinese culinary cultures and identities through the prism of the potato. Specifically, I explore how the central government's strategy to transform the potato from a marginal food into a Chinese national staple opened new possibilities for actors in some marginalized inland regions to reimagine their potato foods as recognized elements of local and wider regional cuisines and culinary identities. In doing so, I also draw attention to the constraints that actors faced in their attempts to reimagine local potato foods, including the sense of ambivalence that continued to surround foods once widely associated with poverty. I discuss these processes of culinary reimagining with reference to potato-growing areas in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region in north China and Yunnan Province in the southwest.

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Regionalism and the Institution of the Yucatecan Gastronomic Field

Cited by 15 publications

References 18 publications

Morzeddhu: A Unique Example of a Traditional and Sustainable Typical Dish from Catanzaro

Morzeddhu: A Unique Example of a Traditional and Sustainable Typical Dish from Catanzaro

Processed Modernity: Cooking Ingredients and the Materiality of Food

Ambivalent Regionalism and the Promotion of a New National Staple Food: Reimagining Potatoes in Inner Mongolia and Yunnan

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