Quantitative and simultaneous non-invasive measurement of skin hydration and sebum levels

Ezerskaia, Anna; Pereira, S. F.; Urbach, H. P.; Verhagen, Rieko; Varghese, Babu

doi:10.1364/boe.7.002311

Cited by 32 publications

(34 citation statements)

References 28 publications

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“…Two different instruments were then successively used to: (i) determine the water content of the outermost layers of the stratum corneum (SC) or (ii) quantify the amount of water that insensibly crosses the epidermal structures (the Trans‐Epidermal Water Loss – TEWL), supplied by a rich dermal water reservoir. The latter results from both a dense blood network that diffused water and the high potency of dermal proteins (Collagen, Elastin, Glycosaminoglycan’s/GAG’s etc.)…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydration and trans‐epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences

Caberlotto

Cornillon

Njikeu

et al. 2019

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective To explore the relationship between skin surface hydration and Trans‐Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) when simultaneously measured. Methods Six circular skin areas of the forearms (3 per forearm, 3 cm in diameter) of 12 Caucasian women were used as models. 4 prototypes of formulae of different compositions containing glycerol at different concentrations 7%, 10% and 40% were used as models of hydrating products. One formula (glycerol‐free) was used as control vehicle. Standardized applications of formulae (2 mg/cm2) were performed on 5 skin sites chosen at random, the other being left as bare/control. A recently marketed instrumental device that records the skin surface hydration and TEWL on a small skin area in a simultaneous manner was used. Measurements were carried out at T0 (pre‐application), at 1 h (T1) and 5 h (T5) post applications on two close sites within the 6 defined areas of both forearms. Results The new instrumental device allowed to clearly differentiate the 5 formulae (i.e. 7% vs. 10%) with regard the dose effect brought by glycerol (7%, 10%, 40%) and to record their lingering effects at T1 and T5. Both parameters were found significantly and negatively correlated, i.e. the higher the skin hydration, the lower the TEWL. The 40% concentration of glycerol, that leads to the highest skin hydration, brings a drop in the TEWL by about a two‐fold factor. Skin hydration of bare skin and control/vehicle sites showed minor and non‐significant changes along 5 h. Instead, the control/ vehicle slowed down the TEWL to a slight extent. Conclusion The use of this new instrumental device shed a new light on the mutual and inverse relationships between skin hydration and TEWL. Results suggest that, at high concentration, glycerol leads to largely increase the water content of both epidermal and dermal compartments, possibly leading to structural changes in the skin relief.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydration and trans‐epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences

Caberlotto

Cornillon

Njikeu

et al. 2019

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…Many professional and home-use devices are currently available for measuring skin sebum and hydration levels. Recently we reported for the first time a non-invasive short wave infrared spectroscopic technique for simultaneous measurement of oiliness and hydration levels of the skin utilizing the differential detection with three wavelengths 1720, 1750, and 1770 nm, corresponding to the lipid vibrational bands that lay "in between" the prominent water absorption bands [19].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

High sensitivity optical measurement of skin gloss

Ezerskaia¹,

Ras²,

Bloemen³

et al. 2017

Biomed. Opt. Express

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Abstract:We demonstrate a low-cost optical method for measuring the gloss properties with improved sensitivity in the low gloss regime, relevant for skin gloss properties. The gloss estimation method is based on, on the one hand, the slope of the intensity gradient in the transition regime between specular and diffuse reflection and on the other on the sum over the intensities of pixels above threshold, derived from a camera image obtained using unpolarized white light illumination. We demonstrate the improved sensitivity of the two proposed methods using Monte Carlo simulations and experiments performed on ISO gloss calibration standards with an optical prototype. The performance and linearity of the method was compared with different professional gloss measurement devices based on the ratio of specular to diffuse intensity. We demonstrate the feasibility for in-vivo skin gloss measurements by quantifying the temporal evolution of skin gloss after application of standard paraffin cream bases on skin. The presented method opens new possibilities in the fields of cosmetology and dermatopharmacology for measuring the skin gloss and resorption kinetics and the pharmacodynamics of various external agents.

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“…1). These specific wavelengths were previously selected as representative bands corresponding to the lipid vibrational bands that lay "in between" the prominent water absorption bands [44]. Following the logic, the wavelengths 1750 nm and 1770 nm were used for estimating the water content and 1720 nm and 1750 nm were used for estimating the lipid content.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The amount of water and lipids is then calculated based on the ratio of backscattered light to the incident intensity using an algorithm based on Beer-Lambert's law. The setup and algorithms are described in more detail elsewhere [44]. The relative amount of water and lipids content in the stratum corneum with respect to the baseline were measured after each tape stripping with the shortwave infrared spectroscopic experimental set-up, Corneometer CM825 (Courage & Khazaka, Köln, Germany), AquaFlux Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) instrument (Biox Systems Ltd, Herts, England) and Sebumeter SM815 (Courage & Khazaka, Köln, Germany).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Subsequently, we reported preliminary results demonstrating the feasibility of a novel non-invasive optical method for simultaneously measuring the hydration and sebum retaining ability of the skin [44]. The methods rely on the detection of signals at three carefully selected wavelengths in the spectral region around 1720 nm, with ratio of sebum-to-water absorption coefficient greater than 1; lower than 1 and an 'isosbestic point', where lipids and water absorb equally.…”

Section: Short Wave Infrared Spectroscopy For the Quantification Of Lmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Potential of short-wave infrared spectroscopy for quantitative depth profiling of stratum corneum lipids and water in dermatology

Ezerskaia¹,

Uzunbajakava²,

Puppels³

et al. 2018

Biomed. Opt. Express

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Abstract:We demonstrate the feasibility of short wave infrared (SWIR) spectroscopy combined with tape stripping for depth profiling of lipids and water in the stratum corneum of human skin. The proposed spectroscopic technique relies on differential detection at three wavelengths of 1720, 1750, and 1770 nm, with varying ratio of the lipid-to-water absorption coefficient and an 'isosbestic point'. Comparison of the data acquired using SWIR spectroscopy with that obtained by a gold standard for non-invasive quantitative molecularspecific skin measurements, namely confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS), revealed specificity of the proposed modality for water and lipid quantification. At the same time, we provide evidence showing aberrant sensitivity of Corneometer hydration read-outs to the presence of skin surface lipids, and a lack of sensitivity of the Sebumeter when attempting to measure the lipids of the cornified lipid envelope and intracellular lipid layers. We conclude that a spectroscopic SWIR-based spectroscopic method combined with tape stripping has the potential for depth profiling of the stratum corneum water and lipids, due to superior measurement sensitivity and specificity compared to the Corneometer and Sebumeter. References and links1. D. J. Tobin, "Introduction to skin aging," J. Tissue Viability 26(1), 37-46 (2017). 2. P. C. Arck, A. Slominski, T. C. Theoharides, E. M. Peters, and R. Paus, "Neuroimmunology of stress: skin takes center stage," J. Invest. Dermatol. 126(8), 1697-1704 (2006). 3. K. R. Feingold and P. M. Elias, "Role of lipids in the formation and maintenance of the cutaneous permeability barrier," Biochim. Biophys. Acta 1841(3), 280-294 (2014). 4. D. J. Tobin, "Biochemistry of human skin--our brain on the outside," Chem. Soc. Rev. 35(1), 52-67 (2006). 5. M. Akiyama, "Corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), the key structure for skin barrier function and ichthyosis pathogenesis," J. Dermatol. Sci. 88(1), 3-9 (2017). 6. K. C. Madison, "Barrier function of the skin: "la raison d'être" of the epidermis," J. Invest. Dermatol. 121(2), 231-241 (2003). 7. D. J. Tobin, "Introduction to skin aging," J. Tissue Viability 26(1), 37-46 (2017 75-83 (2015). 13. R. J. Richters, N. E. Uzunbajakava, D. Falcone, J. C. Hendriks, E. J. Jaspers, P. C. van de Kerkhof, and P. E. van Erp, "Clinical, biophysical and immunohistochemical analysis of skin reactions to acute skin barrier disruptiona comparative trial between participants with sensitive skin and those with nonsensitive skin," Br. J. Dermatol. 174(5), 1126-1133 (2016). 14. M. Akiyama, "Corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), the key structure for skin barrier function and ichthyosis pathogenesis," J. Dermatol. Sci. 88(1), 3-9 (2017). 15. M. Sullivan, N.B. Silverberg, "Current and emerging concepts in atopic dermatitis pathogenesis," Clin, Dermatol.35 (

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Quantitative and simultaneous non-invasive measurement of skin hydration and sebum levels

Cited by 32 publications

References 28 publications

Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydration and trans‐epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences

Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydration and trans‐epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences

High sensitivity optical measurement of skin gloss

Potential of short-wave infrared spectroscopy for quantitative depth profiling of stratum corneum lipids and water in dermatology

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