Propagation of Long Waves onto Shelf

Goring, Derek G.; Raichlen, Fredric

doi:10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1992)118:1(43)

Cited by 139 publications

(200 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…Tracing back alongn P generates an estimate of the extrapolated interface velocity and shear Table 1. (a) Input parameters of the cnoidal wave theory for the offshore wave generator (Goring 1979) and (b) mesh set-up and free-surface initialization, for the set-up of the TK96 wave-breaking simulation.…”

Section: Multi-physics Treatment Near Deformable Interfacesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…For the purpose of a quantitative comparison with experiment, the employed grid resolution (2048 × 130) is sufficient in both spatial directions. The free surface is initialized as quiescent and waves are generated using the cnoidal wave generator introduced by Goring (1979). Care is taken in wave generation to verify that net liquid accumulations in the flow domain over time are zero, i.e.…”

Section: Les Of Short Spilling Water Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Lakehal

Liovic

2011

J. Fluid Mech.

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Large-eddy and interface simulation using an interface tracking-based multi-fluid flow solver is conducted to investigate the breaking of steep water waves on a beach of constant bed slope. The present investigation focuses mainly on the 'weak plunger' breaking wave type and provides a detailed analysis of the two-way interaction between the mean fluid flow and the sub-modal motions, encompassing wave dynamics and turbulence. The flow is analysed from two points of views: mean to sub-modal exchange, and wave to turbulence interaction within the sub-modal range. Wave growth and propagation are due to energy transfer from the mean flow to the waves, and transport of mean momentum by these waves. The vigorous downwellingupwelling patterns developing at the head and tail of each breaker are shown to generate both negative-and positive-signed energy exchange contributions in the thin sublayer underneath the water surface. The details of these exchange mechanisms are thoroughly discussed in this paper, together with the interplay between threedimensional small-scale breaking associated with turbulence and the dominant twodimensional wave motion. A conditional zonal analysis is proposed for the first time to understand the transient mechanisms of turbulent kinetic energy production, decay, diffusion and transport and their dependence and/or impact on surface wrinkling over the entire breaking process. The simulations provide a thorough picture of airliquid coherent structures that develop over the breaking process, and link them to the transient mechanisms responsible for their local incidence.

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Section: Multi-physics Treatment Near Deformable Interfacesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Les Of Short Spilling Water Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Lakehal

Liovic

2011

J. Fluid Mech.

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“…For this period of the flow, descriptions or solutions for the flow based on solitary bores are more appropriate (Yeh 1991(Yeh , 2006, which are closely related to those for surf zone bores (Shen & Meyer 1963;Hibberd & Peregrine 1979). Nevertheless, solitary waves have formed the basis for the majority of tsunami modelling and engineering analysis (Goring 1979;Synolakis 1987;Yeh et al 1996;Li & Raichlen 2002;Carrier et al 2003;Borthwick et al 2006). Further, while solitary waves are typically steeper than tsunami , for non-breaking waves the run-up mechanisms remain similar, with variations in the vertical runup and flow velocity well described by the surf similarity parameter and wave steepness .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Overtopping of solitary waves and solitary bores on a plane beach

2012

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The overtopping of solitary waves and bores present major hazards during the initial phase of tsunami inundation and storm surges. This paper presents new laboratory data on overtopping events by both solitary waves and solitary bores. Existing empirical overtopping scaling laws are found to be deficient for these wave forms. Two distinct scaling regimes are instead identified. For solitary waves, the overtopping rates scale linearly with the deficit in run-up freeboard. The volume flux in the incident solitary wave is also an important parameter, and a weak dependence on the nonlinearity of the waves (H /d) is observed. For solitary bores, the overtopping cannot be scaled uniquely, because the fluid momentum behind the incident bore front is independent of the bore height, but it is in close agreement with recent solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The maximum overtopping rate for the solitary waves is shown to be the lower bound of the overtopping rate for the solitary bores with the same deficit in freeboard. Thus, for a given run-up, the solitary bores induce greater overtopping rates than the solitary waves when the relative freeboard is small.

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“…Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory of Oregon State University ( Swigler, 2009 ) to investigate some of the phenomena occurring when solitary waves approach a complex topography. Solitary waves represent a good model, at the laboratory scale, for real scale tsunamis ( Goring, 1978 ). The lab basin, whose shape is shown in Fig.…”

Section: Test 3 Propagation Of a Solitary Wave Over A 3d Irregular Bmentioning

confidence: 99%

A non-hydrostatic pressure distribution solver for the nonlinear shallow water equations over irregular topography

Aricò

2016

Advances in Water Resources

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Propagation of Long Waves onto Shelf

Cited by 139 publications

References 16 publications

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

Overtopping of solitary waves and solitary bores on a plane beach

A non-hydrostatic pressure distribution solver for the nonlinear shallow water equations over irregular topography

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