Promising Functions of Novel Vitamin D Derivatives as Cosmetics: A New Fountain of Youth in Skin Aging and Skin Protection

Abstract

Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have anti-inflammatory properties, act as antioxidants, inhibit DNA damage and stimulate DNA repair after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. In melanocytes, they also inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. In fibroblasts, they inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production, and promote wound healing and regeneration. On the other hand, skin cells have the ability to activate vitamin D directly. These activities, along with the projected topical application of vitamin D derivatives, are promising for skin care and photo protection and can be used in the prevention or possible reversal of skin aging.

Research Progress in Skin Aging and Immunity

“…In addition to these, external factors include exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), air pollution, nutritional habits, and smoking [6,57,58]. Ultraviolet radiation is the most important factor leading to skin aging, and its damage to skin aging is dose-dependent.…”

“…However, when aging, the level of vitamin D3 is decreased [92,93]. The deficiency of vitamin D3 is associated with increased inflammation in skin [57,58,94].…”

“…A few studies have reported that vitamin D3 and its metabolites seem to have some effect on enhancing the defensive functions in immune cells [115,116]. But specific products for enhancing the defensive functions in immune cells against skin aging are lacking [57,58].…”

“…Some sunscreen products could be used to avoid the overaction of immune cells and prevent the damage of UVR. In addition to these, vitamin D3/melatonin and related products can directly attenuate the inflammatory damage of UVR in skin [58,97].…”