Pigmentation of the skin is produced by dermal melanocytes. Melanin biosynthesis is the rate-limiting step in the transformation of the amino acid, L-tyrosine, to L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalaline (L-DOPA) by tyrosinase catalyses in melanocytes. The subsequent oxidation of L-DOPA then yields the semi-stable intermediate, L-dopaquinone, which is converted by dopachrome tautomerase and tyosinase to 5,6-indolequinone-2-carboxylic acid and finally eumelanin.
1)Then the melanin is spread throughout dermal cells and keratinocytes via melanosomes to darken the tissues. However, melanogenesis is regulated by several factors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and a-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (a-MSH).2) Therefore, Chinese herbs with possible applications as skin-whitening cosmetic agents were first screened by mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, antioxidation (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging), and UVR absorption models. L-DOPA was used as a common substrate of mushroom tyrosinase to screen the tyrosinase-inhibition activities of compounds. The dopachrome level of the above reaction indicates the tyrosinase activity.Natural products, with non-toxic and environmentally friendly properties compared to artificial synthetic chemicals, are good resources for skin-whitening cosmetic agents. Proanthocyanidin oligomers and tannins have been reported to inhibit melanogenesis in melanoma cells. 3,4) At present, ten kinds of herbal medicines used as skin care agents in traditional medicine were evaluated by a melanogenesis assay. Among the tested samples, the tyrosinase inhibition of Chinese galls was strongest. Second, the depigmenting effects of Chinese galls were explored on melanin synthesis in murine B16 F 10 melanoma (B16) cells and the active compounds were isolated by column chromatography.The melanogenesis of B16 cells can be induced by ultraviolet A (UVA) and a-MSH; moreover, the proliferation of B16 cells is also an important factor.2,5,6) Therefore, the viability of B16 cells was monitored after treatment of test samples. Under less-cytotoxic concentrations, the melanin production level of B16 cells was measured after co-treatment with inducers. The above B16 cell model was used to evaluate the depigmenting effects of Chinese galls.Chinese galls (Galla Rhois, Wu Bei Zi) are the excrescence produced by parasitic aphids, mainly Melaphis chinensis (BELL) BAKERS (Aphididae), on leaves of Rhus chinensis MILL. or R. punjabensis STEW. var. sinica (DIELS) REHD. et WILS (Anacardiaceae). 7) Chinese galls are used as an astringent traditional Chinese medicine for their antidiarrheal, hemostatic, and antibacterial properties. They contain high levels (50-70%) of gallotannins.8) The principle action of Chinese galls is through their astringent effects on proteins, coagulating them to from an insoluble protective membrane to stop bleeding, and this inhibits secretion by mucous membranes. 7) They are used in the treatment of chronic intestinal infections, hematochezia, protoptosis, skin infections, and bleeding wounds. Chi...