Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics

Abstract

1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives.

Lipsticks History, Formulations, and Production: A Narrative Review

“…The mixture of phase A and B was removed from heat, and phase C was added and then poured in the lipstick moulds [21]. On a different occasion, the same method as above was followed by Esposito et al ( 2021) to prepare organogel-based lipstick [116]. The only difference was that Esposito et al (2021) heated phase A to 200 • C, phase B was heated separately to 100 • C, and the pigment was dispersed well in phase B and then added to phase A [116].…”

“…On a different occasion, the same method as above was followed by Esposito et al ( 2021) to prepare organogel-based lipstick [116]. The only difference was that Esposito et al (2021) heated phase A to 200 • C, phase B was heated separately to 100 • C, and the pigment was dispersed well in phase B and then added to phase A [116]. Typically, the wax phase (phase A) is created by melting the waxes in a water bath in decreasing order of the melting point.…”

Organogel: A Propitious Carman in Drug Delivery System

“…Low molecular weight organogelators (LMOGs) such as DBS and 12-HSA are used for preparation of lipsticks [71]. 12-HSA organogelator is used in sunscreens to block UVB rays [41].…”

Advances in the Supramolecular Chemistry of Tetracoordinate Boron-Containing Organic Molecules into Organogels and Mesogens

“…The formation of organogels depends on various factors such as the nature of the gelator, solvent, temperature and the time for gelation. Organogels are widely employed as matrices for inks, paints and cosmetics, and their stimuli-responsive properties allow them to be used for applications wherein sustained and controlled release is necessary ( Abdallah and Weiss, 2000 ; Varaprasad et al, 2017 ; Crump et al, 2021 ; Das et al, 2021 ; Esposito and Kirilov, 2021 ). Boron-difluoride complexes are emerging as an important class of organogelators because they can promote non-covalent interactions through the hetero atoms that are present inherently in their structure.…”