Prediction of Occurrence of Breaking Waves in Deep Water

Ochi, Michel K.; Tsai, Cheng-Han

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1983)013<2008:pooobw>2.0.co;2

Cited by 71 publications

(33 citation statements)

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“…An excellent correlation between the limiting ak and v can be seen. This result supports the observations [ Ochi and Tasi , 1983; Tulin and Li , 1992] that the wave steepness of ocean waves with a broad distribution of energy in frequency is much lower than that of the Stokes limiting wave, ak = 0.44. Furthermore, this result also provides an explanation that background oceanic turbulence, i.e., broadening the spectrum or an increase of v , may lower breaking criteria in the field relative to the values predicted by theory or observed in pristine tanks [ Wu and Nepf , 2002; Kolaini and Tulin , 1995].…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 91%

“…An excellent correlation between the limiting ak and v can be seen. This result supports the observations [Ochi and Tasi, 1983;Tulin Figure 7. Local wave steepness, ak, of limiting freak waves versus (a) frequency bandwidth ratio, Df/f c , and (b) spectral bandwidth, v. The symbols, circles, triangles, and squares, represent wave groups of linear-steepness, constant-steepness, and constant-amplitude spectra, respectively.…”

Section: Geometrical Profile Of Limiting Freak Wavessupporting

confidence: 92%

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Laboratory measurements of limiting freak waves on currents

Yao

2004

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] The results of laboratory measurements on limiting freak waves in the presence of currents are reported. Both dispersive spatial-temporal focusing and wave-current interaction are used to generate freak waves in a partial random wave field in the presence of currents. Wave group structure, for example, spectral slope and frequency bandwidth, is found to be critical to the formation and the geometric properties of freak waves. A nondimensional spectral bandwidth is shown to well represent wave group structure and proves to be a good indicator in determining limiting freak wave characteristics. The role of a co-existing current in the freak wave formation is recognized. Experimental results confirm that a random wave field does not prevent freak wave formation due to dispersive focusing. Strong opposing currents inducing partial wave blocking significantly elevate the limiting steepness and asymmetry of freak waves. At the location where a freak wave occurs, the Fourier spectrum exhibits local energy transfer to high-frequency waves. The Hilbert-Huang spectrum, a time-frequency-amplitude spectrum, depicts both the temporal and spectral evolution of freak waves. A strong correlation between the magnitude of interwave instantaneous frequency modulation and the freak wave nonlinearity (steepness) is observed. The experimental results provide an explanation to address the occurrence and characteristic of freak waves in consideration of the onset of wave breaking.

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 91%

Section: Geometrical Profile Of Limiting Freak Wavessupporting

confidence: 92%

Laboratory measurements of limiting freak waves on currents

Yao

2004

J. Geophys. Res.

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“…Later Longuet-Higgins [13] reported that the observable particle acceleration of the almost highest wave would not be smaller than K0.39g. Srokosz [29] proposed a similar value of K0.4g by reexamining the geometric breaking criterion of Ochi and Tsai [17]. Dawson et al [4] suggested a further less threshold value of K0.33g by comparing the calculated probability of occurrence of breaking with the experimental results.…”

Section: Dynamic Breaking Criterionmentioning

confidence: 96%

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

Mizutani

Suh

et al. 2005

Applied Ocean Research

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The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, K0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action. q

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“…The widely used dynamical threshold is the crest acceleration [6,16,17] , which means that the breaking occurs when the crest acceleration excesses −αg (α is a constant, g is a gravitational acceleration). The constant α has been determined by experiments as: α = 0.5 [16] , 0.39 [18] , 0.34 [19] , 0.32 [20] , respectively. It is later noted that the different values of α are proposed because the authors use different methods, the Euler method or the Lagrange method [21,22] .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Applications of Improved 2‐D Numerical Wave Tanks in Wave Breaking

Song

2008

Chinese J of Geophysics

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Song and Banner (2002, henceforth referred to as SB02) used a numerical wave tank (developed by Drimer and Agnon, and further refined by Segre, henceforth referred to as DAS) to study the wave breaking in deep water, and proposed a dimensionless breaking threshold based on the behaviour of the wave energy modulation and focusing during the evolution of the wave group. In this paper, two modified DAS models are used to further test the SB02's results, the first one (named to MDAS1) corrected many integral calculation errors appeared in the DAS code, and the second one (named MDAS2) replaced the linear boundary element approximation of DAS into the cubic element on the free surface. Researches show that the results of MDAS1 are the same as those of DAS for the simulations of deep water wave breaking, but the different values of the wavemaker amplitude, breaking time and the maximum local average energy growth rate ‐max for the marginal breaking cases are generated by MDAS2 in comparison with MDAS1. However, MDAS2 still satisfies the SB02's breaking threshold. Furthermore, MDAS1 is utilized to study the marginal breaking case at the intermediate water depth when wave passes over a submerged slope, where the slope is given by 1:500, 1:300, 1:150 or 1:100. It is found that the maximum local energy density μ increases significantly if the slope becomes steeper, and the ‐max decreases weakly and increases intensively for the marginal recurrence case and marginal breaking case, respectively. SB02's breaking threshold is still valid for the wave passing over a submerged slope that is gentler than 1:100 at the intermediate water depth.

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Prediction of Occurrence of Breaking Waves in Deep Water

Cited by 71 publications

References 0 publications

Laboratory measurements of limiting freak waves on currents

Laboratory measurements of limiting freak waves on currents

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

Applications of Improved 2‐D Numerical Wave Tanks in Wave Breaking

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