Possible Identification of Specialty Fibers by Electrophoresis

Marshall, R.C.; Zahn, Helmut; Blankenburg, Gudrun

doi:10.1177/004051758405400211

Cited by 19 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…Von Bergen [ 13] said that cashmere and fine wool are chemically the same, and Dusenbury [3] found that cashmere has a cystine content similar to fine wool. Two dimensional gel electrop6oresis is currently being used to identify keratin fibers [9] on the basis of protein patterns. Preliminary results [8] show that the protein patterns of wool and cashmere are similar.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Set in Bending of Australian Cashmere and Superfine Merino

Tester

Foley

1986

Textile Research Journal

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Cashmere and superfine merino fibers of similar diameter but markedly different crimp curvature were wound onto mandrels and set in boiling distilled water for varying times. Regardless of fiber type, the one minute permanent set increased with increasing fiber crimp curvature (mandrel curvature 1.72 mm -1 ). Wool set very well, and with longer setting times the mean permanent set became asymptotic with values ranging from 89.8% to 98.5% as the time approached 60 minutes. The permanent set of cashmere was more variable but much less than wool; after five minutes cashmere reached its maximum set of about 40%.Cashmere is a fine speciality fiber, with very little crimp, and is synonymous with fabrics of the highest quality. Surprisingly, for a fiber able to confer such desirable characteristics to fabric, it has received little attention in the field of textile research. This could be due to the small amount of fiber produced and the specialized nature of its processing.In recent years cashmere &dquo;down&dquo; has received attention in Australia, and in 1984 the production was about 15 tons. The Australian cashmere goat is already producing more cashmere than goats of other producer countries [ 11 ]. This paper is part of a series studying cashmere fibers in an effort to determine those characteristics that are important in imparting the luxurious handle to the finished product. Setting is an important textile property that affects such fabric parameters as dimensional stability and handle. Most of the early work on setting was done at high strains in longitudinal extension. Recently however, interest has moved to setting at low strains and also in bending, these being more relevant to the industrial situation. By winding a fiber around a mandrel of appropriate diameter, the bending strains encountered in a fabric can be simulated, and by setting the fiber in this configuration, a setting response equivalent to the fibers in a fabric subjected to the same process is produced. This paper compares the set in bending of Australian cashmere and superfine merino, which it is suggested approaches the &dquo;quality&dquo; of cashmere [4], and allows comparison of these results with previous work on merino and on Lincoln wool fibers [5]. ' Materials and Methods .Single fibers drawn from samples of raw wool and cashmere were washed in trichloroethane. The wool samples were selected from several superfine merino sheep with different fiber crimp characteristics separated on the basis of resistance to compression [6, 7]. The Australian cashmere samples, both white and pigmented, originated from female feral goats and from goats selected for high crimp down. These samples were also tested for resistance to compression. The mean fiber diameters for all lots were between 16 and 18 11m.We determined the mean crimp curvature of most fibers, prior to setting. Using the projection microscope, circles were fitted to the crimps along each fiber in water. The radii of the best fitting circles were used to calculate the average crimp curv...

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Set in Bending of Australian Cashmere and Superfine Merino

Tester

Foley

1986

Textile Research Journal

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“…the measurement of scale thickness by using a scanning electron microscope [3,4]. ( ) Results obtained on the same samples, unbleached, by one of the laboratories carrying out the tests.…”

Section: Cellulose-fibre Mixturesmentioning

confidence: 99%

EEC Inter- laboratory Tests on Methods of Analysis of Fibre Mixtures EEC Working Party on Textile Names and Labelling - Analysis

1988

Journal of the Textile Institute

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“…To date, they appear to be able to detect whether or not the fiber is 100% pure mohair but cannot identify or quantify any adulterants in mohair blends. Other work such as chemical based analysis [6 ] and cortical cell. examination from TEM data [11] ] has attempted to distinguish between wool and specialty fibers without great success.…”

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confidence: 99%

Cuticular Scale Measurements Using Image Analysis Techniques

Robson¹,

Weedall²,

Harwood³

1989

Textile Research Journal

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A method is described for examining and measuring fiber cuticular scale patterns from optical micrographs, impressions, or SEMs. The captured images are initially manipulated using several image processing functions to clarify scale structure. Image analysis is then done using a chain-coding routine that allows a number of measurements of the scale parameters to be made quickly and accurately. Results are given for the analysis on fiber casts of four sections of different wool types and on a series of SEM photographs of Chinese cashmere and merino wool fibers.In the textile industry, there has long been the desire in certain areas, notably quality knitwear, to be able to distinguish between the various animal fibers used to produce high quality yarns. These yarns may be 100% pure wools such as merino or 100% pure cashmere, or blends of cashmere, merino, mohair, cashgora, yak, etc. Some researchers have suggested that the measurement of the evenness of fiber diameter [ 12 ], the scale height [ 15 ] , and the ratio of the cube of the scale interval to the diameter [ 10 will distinguish between certain wool/specialty fiber combinations, but others have suggested that measurements of specific individual parameters such as these are unreliable [ 5 ] .Workers at SAWTRI are trying to identify mohair and blends of mohair for the International Mohair Association [ 13 ] . They are using SEM data and measuring scale heights manually. To date, they appear to be able to detect whether or not the fiber is 100% pure mohair but cannot identify or quantify any adulterants in mohair blends. Other work such as chemical based analysis [6 ] and cortical cell. examination from TEM data [11] ] has attempted to distinguish between wool and specialty fibers without great success. At present, long laborious methods using manual measurements of properties such as scale interval, scale height, and scale angle taken from either optical micrographs or SEMs are used by an expert operator with access to a fiber knowledge base to identify these fibers. This method has not yet been successfully used to fully identify and quantify all the fibers in a blend.It would therefore be of considerable value to garment producers if there were a quicker means of characterizing fiber types and quantification of fiber types in blends. We hope this may be possible using image analysis techniques.For the purpose of this report, we analyzed four different wool fiber types using photographs of fiber casts taken from the publication by Wildman [ 14 ] . Also we took a series of photomicrographs of SEM images of white Chinese cashmere and fine merino wool samples prepared at the Scottish College of Textiles (S.C.O.T.). These were obtained by affixing the fibers to a SEM stub and sputtering with gold. Using a 5 kV accelerating voltage, the fibers were focused on the raster screen at 1000X magnification. The fibers were examined on the raster screen, and a small representative sample set for each fiber type was photographed. The photographs were then subjected to imag...

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Possible Identification of Specialty Fibers by Electrophoresis

Cited by 19 publications

References 5 publications

Set in Bending of Australian Cashmere and Superfine Merino

Set in Bending of Australian Cashmere and Superfine Merino

EEC Inter- laboratory Tests on Methods of Analysis of Fibre Mixtures EEC Working Party on Textile Names and Labelling - Analysis

Cuticular Scale Measurements Using Image Analysis Techniques

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