Plant In Vitro Systems as a Sustainable Source of Active Ingredients for Cosmeceutical Application

Abstract

Cosmeceuticals are hybrids between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which are being designed for a dual purpose: (1) To provide desired esthetical effects and (2) simultaneously treat dermatological conditions. The increased demand for natural remedies and the trends to use natural and safe ingredients resulted in intensive cultivation of medicinal plants. However, in many cases the whole process of plant cultivation, complex extraction procedure, and purification of the targeted molecules are not economically feasible. Therefore, the desired production of natural cosmetic products in sustainable and controllable fashion in the last years led to the intensive utilization of plant cell culture technology. The present review aims to highlight examples of biosynthesis of active ingredients derived through plant in vitro systems with potential cosmeceutical application. The exploitation of different type of extracts used in a possible cosmeceutical formulation, as well as, their activity tested in in vitro/in vivo models is thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, opportunities to manipulate the biosynthetic pathway, hence engineering the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, such as anthocyanins, have been highlighted.

Biotechnologically Produced Lavandula angustifolia Mill. Extract Rich in Rosmarinic Acid Resolves Psoriasis-Related Inflammation Through Janus Kinase/Signal Transducer and Activator of Transcription Signaling

“…Alternative approach for sustainable RA biosynthesis is the implementation of plant in vitro systems. Plant cell cultures give possibilities for the delivery of necessary amount of the targeted bioactive molecules, such as RA, regardless of the vegetative characteristics of the plant species or the limitation of the plant material and the climatic conditions ( Goncalves et al, 2013 ; Marchev and Georgiev, 2020 ). We have previously reported the selection of high RA producing calli cell line PF of Lavandula angustifolia Mill (LV; Georgiev et al, 2006 ).…”

Impact of Artificial Polyploidization in Ajuga reptans on Content of Selected Biologically Active Glycosides and Phytoecdysone

“…Extracts from this plant species contain two glycosides: teupolioside and verbascoside. Several studies have demonstrated the potential anticancer, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects of this species, which could, therefore, have cosmeceutical and food production applications [6,7]. Moreover, the presence of phytoecdysteroids (20-hydroxyecdysone) suggests the possible use of Ajuga extract as a botanical pesticide.…”

Optimization of Flavonoid Production in Plant Cell Culture of Thevetia peruviana Elicited with Methyl Jasmonate and Salicylic Acid

“…The plants naturally produce bioactive compounds when placed in vitro, but its content is very low due to the brief stationary phase that in vitro cultured plants present, because of the inhibition by the action of enzymes [15]. Elicitors such as MeJa and SA are frequently used to enhance the secondary metabolites production in plant cell cultures, since they act as regulators of defense responses, by initiating signals that active multiple secondary biosynthetic pathways and their relevant genes [16,17].…”