Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

Ezersky, Alexander; Abcha, Nizar; Pelinovsky, Efim

doi:10.5194/npg-20-35-2013

Cited by 15 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 17 publications

(67 reference statements)

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“…The first resonant regime (λ 0 /L = 5.2, where λ 0 is the incoming wavelength and L is the horizontal beach length) was achieved for non-breaking waves as in [13]. Moreover, it is also interesting to note that our findings present similarities to those of [7,6] who described a resonance phenomenon of short wave run-up on sloping structures.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 62%

“…These results were confirmed experimentally in a wave tank by [13] who distinguished the frequency that leads to resonant run-up from the resonant frequency of the wavemaker. They also observed a secondary resonant regime which was not identified before.…”

Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 62%

“…Run-up resonance in the laboratory experiments of [13] was achieved for breaking waves as well, but for these cases they did not comment on the location where the breaking takes place. Hence, probably wave breaking is not the key factor to the resonant mechanism.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Run-up amplification of transient long waves

Stefanakis

Dutykh

et al. 2015

Quart. Appl. Math.

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Abstract. The extreme characteristics of the run-up of transient long waves are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation [9]. Then, using numerical simulations, we build on the work of Stefanakis et al. (2011) [37] for an infinite sloping beach and we find that resonant run-up amplification of monochromatic waves is robust to spectral perturbations of the incoming wave and resonant regimes do exist for certain values of the frequency. In the setting of a finite beach attached to a constant depth region, resonance can only be observed when the incoming wavelength is larger than the distance from the undisturbed shoreline to the seaward boundary. Wavefront steepness is also found to play a role in wave run-up, with steeper waves reaching higher run-up values.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 62%

Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 62%

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Run-up amplification of transient long waves

Stefanakis

Dutykh

et al. 2015

Quart. Appl. Math.

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“…More recently, statistical effects caused by the irregular character of the incident wave and a randomly varying depth have also been taken into account (Denissenko et al 2011;Didenkulova, Pelinovsky & Sergeeva 2011;Dutykh, Labart & Mitsotakis 2011). We would also like to point out recent studies of the resonance effects in the nearshore zone (Stefanakis, Dias & Dutykh 2011;Ezersky, Abcha & Pelinovsky 2013).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Nonlinear wave run-up in bays of arbitrary cross-section: generalization of the Carrier–Greenspan approach

2014

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We present an exact analytical solution of the nonlinear shallow water theory for wave run-up in inclined channels of arbitrary cross-section, which generalizes previous studies on wave run-up for a plane beach and channels of parabolic cross-section. The solution is found using a hodograph-type transform, which extends the well-known Carrier-Greenspan transform for wave run-up on a plane beach. As a result, the nonlinear shallow water equations are reduced to a single one-dimensional linear wave equation for an auxiliary function and all physical variables can be expressed in terms of this function by purely algebraic formulas. In the special case of a U-shaped channel this equation coincides with a spherically symmetric wave equation in space, whose dimension is defined by the channel cross-section and can be fractional. As an example, the run-up of a sinusoidal wave on a beach is considered for channels of several different cross-sections and the influence of the cross-section on wave run-up characteristics is studied.

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“…Our excitation frequency range was chosen following our published study about the physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach (see Ezersky et al, 2013). In this study, we describe edge waves excited by the third resonant mode of the system.…”

Section: Theoretical Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Subharmonic resonant excitation of edge waves by breaking surface waves

Abcha

Zhang

Ezersky

et al. 2017

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

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Abstract. Parametric excitation of edge waves with a frequency 2 times less than the frequency of surface waves propagating perpendicular to the inclined bottom is investigated in laboratory experiments. The domain of instability on the plane of surface wave parameters (amplitude-frequency) is found. The subcritical instability is observed in the system of parametrically excited edge waves. It is shown that breaking of surface waves initiates turbulent effects and can suppress the parametric generation of edge waves.

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Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

Cited by 15 publications

References 17 publications

Run-up amplification of transient long waves

Run-up amplification of transient long waves

Nonlinear wave run-up in bays of arbitrary cross-section: generalization of the Carrier–Greenspan approach

Subharmonic resonant excitation of edge waves by breaking surface waves

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