Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

Abstract

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).

Parabens Permeation through Biological Membranes: A Comparative Study Using Franz Cell Diffusion System and Biomimetic Liquid Chromatography

“…For these reasons, most of these excipients can act as enhancers to increase skin barrier permeability. Indeed, in the Caon et al study [42], PBs are dissolved in ethanol, a wellknown promoter of skin passage [46], at various percentages (0.1% paraben dissolved in an ethanol/PBS mixture-20:80 and 50:50), while other studies introduced PBs in donor chambers as cream (O/W emulsion) formulations [47] or as commercial body lotions [48]. For instance, Hatami et al evaluated the passage of MP and BuP from an emulsion using the FDC system, observing that MP has lower permeation and lower extent than BuP, adding PBs in the oily phase of the formulation [49].…”

Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art 2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line Redefinition

“…Furthermore, the vermilion border is a body site particularly susceptible to water loss, with consequences in the surface smoothness, shape, tactile sensitivity, and healthy appearance [21]. Capacitance is a method recognized worldwide for establishing skin hydration [22][23][24][25][26]; therefore, since the skin is covered by an, albeit thinner, epithelial layer, it is possible to employ the same tool for assessing lip water content, as also shown in previous studies [27][28][29].…”

Application of Omics Techniques in Skin Homeostasis Evaluation

“…Many of the beneficial effects induced by SM are exerted by microbial metabolites. Examples include bacteriocins, biofilms, antimicrobial peptides and indoles that inhibit many moulds and yeasts (di Lorenzo et al, 2021). Escherichia coli KUB-36 metabolites and single-chain fatty acids inhibit the expression of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α, while inducing the expression of the anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-10, which affects the lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory response in THP-1 macrophages (Fu, 2021;Liu et al, 2013).…”