Optimization of Mangifera indica L. Kernel Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions via Response Surface Methodology, Characterization, Stability, and Skin Permeation for Anti-Acne Cosmeceutical Application

Abstract

This study aimed to optimize nanoemulsions loading with Mangifera indica L. kernel extract using response surface methodology for enhancing the stability and skin permeation of the extract. Central composite design was employed for optimization and evaluation of three influencing factors including hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB), % co-surfactant (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate), and surfactant-to-oil ratio (SOR) on physical properties of the nanoemulsions. The desired nanoemulsions were then incorporated with the extract and characterized. Physicochemical properties of the extract-loaded nanoemulsions and their antibacterial effects against Propionibacterium acnes were also evaluated after storage at various conditions and compared to those of the initial. Ex vivo skin permeation was also investigated. The factors significantly (p < 0.05) influenced on droplet size, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential, especially HLB of the surfactant and its combined effects with co-surfactant and SOR. The extract-loaded nanoemulsions revealed a very small spherical droplets (size of 26.14 ± 0.22 nm) with narrow size distribution (PDI of 0.16 ± 0.02). The formulation also presented an excellent stability profile and successfully enhanced antibacterial stability of the extract comparing with the extract solution. Ex vivo skin permeation study illustrated that the extract in nanoemulsions could be delivered through a primary skin barrier to reach viable epidermis dermis layers. In conclusion, the affinity of surfactant and hydrophilicity of the system play a crucial role in nanoemulsions’ characteristics. Such results might provide promising anti-acne nanoemulsions with the notable capacities of extract stabilization and permeation enhancing which will be further clinically evaluated.

Application of Response Surface Methodologies to Optimize High-Added Value Products Developments: Cosmetic Formulations as an Example

“…On this scenario, RSM and ANN may be applied in combination to achieve a credible and reproducible optimization of the process, since they would allow the evaluation of both responses, i.e., those with linear behavior and those without. In fact, some works have already optimized several extraction procedures by applying RSM and ANN methodologies, showing that both optimization methods provide similar results and allow a complementation in the results favoring a more complete, credible, and reliable understanding of the behavior [ 83 , 112 , 113 ].…”

“…In this work, the HLB value and the concentration of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate had a relevant effect on the droplet size and PDI, decreasing these values when HLB and emulsifier concentrations reached higher values, whereas the Z-potential achieved negative values at these conditions. Moreover, the optimized nanoemulsions presented a great skin permeability, reaching the epidermis and epidermis layer and also passing through them, thanks to the small size that was achieved (20–30 nm), thereby enhancing the delivery of the bioactive compounds from mango kernels in the target zones [ 112 ]. On the other hand, kojic acid has been tested as a whitening and anti-melanogenic agent, revealing great results [ 113 ].…”

The role of bioactive phytoconstituents-loaded nanoemulsions for skin improvement: a review

“…quercetagetin also strongly suppresses thymus and activation-regulated chemokine and macrophage-derived chemokine production in HacaT human keratinocytes. Therefore, this nanoemulsion has a promising use as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product [104].…”

Applications of Natural, Semi-Synthetic, and Synthetic Polymers in Cosmetic Formulations

“…They are used in bath products, shaving products, skin care products, make-up, skin cleansing products, shampoo, hair conditioners, and deodorant [23]. Poomanee et al (2020) developed nanoemulsion loadings with Mangifera indica L. kernel extract to enhance the stability and skin permeation of the extract to be a promising anti-acne product [24]. The mixture was composed of safflower oil as the oil phase, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, the surfactant mixture of Ceteareth-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and sorbitan oleate along with butylated hydroxytoluene.…”