Optimization of cosmetic formulations development using Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology: physical, sensory and moisturizing properties

Mercúrio, Daiane Garcia; Calixto, Lívia Salomão; Campos, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia

doi:10.1590/s2175-97902020000318502

Cited by 2 publications

(1 citation statement)

References 23 publications

(25 reference statements)

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“…Although rheological behavior could predict the degree of reduction in viscoelastic properties during storage, the addition of droplet size analysis could provide a complete understanding of the structural changes of sunscreen formulation as a function of time in the first few weeks. In addition, as suggested by Mercurio et al 39 in the recent study, a factorial design of experiments could provide additional information on the quantitative effect of certain ingredients of formulation on particle size and rheological parameters. These methods can be used in future studies to expand the insight into the processes that could potentially affect the stability of sunscreen formulation with GSE during long‐term storage.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 91%

Chemical and mechanical accelerated and long‐term stability evaluation of sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract

Yarovaya

Waranuch

Wisuitiprot

et al. 2022

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Background: Sunscreens and catechins from grape seed extract (GSE) are sensitive to various environmental factors and undergo certain changes over time that might affect the effectiveness of the final product. To this date, effects of thermal storage conditions have not been sufficiently addressed to guarantee the long-term stability of sunscreen formulations. Aims:To study the chemical and mechanical accelerated and long-term stability of sunscreen formulation containing GSE at the Climatic Zone IVb conditions. Methods: Stability studies were performed for 6 months for accelerated stability study at 30°C ± 2 and 50°C ± 2, 75 ± 5% relative humidity; and long-term stability study at 5°C ± 5. The quantification of constituents of three formulations: sunscreen with GSE, cream with UV filters only, and cream with GSE only was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography. In vitro spectrophotometry was used to determine changes in sun protection effectiveness through SPF and UVAPF values.Mechanical stability was evaluated by textural and rheological analyzes.Results: All tested formulations were less stable at high-temperature conditions. The contents of catechin (С) and epicatechin (EC) in sunscreen with GSE were reduced to 37% and 50% at 50°C, respectively, whereas UV filters appeared to be stable. However, despite the significant reduction in catechins over time, polyphenols in GSE remained unchanged at different stored conditions. The SPF values and water resistance of sunscreen with GSE were maintained throughout the study. Conclusions:A current in vitro study has shown that sunscreen with GSE is a valueadded anti-aging ingredient in sunscreen formulation because its polyphenolic composition as well as SPF values and water resistance were maintained under all temperature conditions over time.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 91%