Optical analyses of wool dyeing materials in ancient Moroccan carpets “Zarbia(s)”: Combination of UV-vis diffuse reflectance, 3D-fluorescence and Raman spectroscopies

Barbache, Sara; Lamhasni, Taibi; Bakkali, Abdelmajid El; Lyazidi, S. Ait; Haddad, M.; Ben-Ncer, Abdelouahed; Hnach, M.

doi:10.1016/j.dyepig.2018.02.033

Cited by 10 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…For example, in sample S3 the band on this region showed a colour shift of about 20-60 nm towards higher wavelengths (violet hue) [Figure 7]. Similar shifts have been described for dark pink-red textiles (Barbache et al 2018). This shift can be due to the employment of a specific mordants (de Ferri et al 2018) and/or to the employment of an alkaline media during the dyeing process.…”

Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 61%

“…All spectra show a similar shape, with a characteristic band around 273 nm, a wide band in the region of red colorants (around 500-600 nm), and high absorbances between the above bands. The presence of weakly structured bands from 300 to nearly 650 nm is a common feature of red coloured textile fibres treated with different types of natural colorants (Barbache et al, 2018). Despite the high absorbances measured, which were >1 in most part of the tested wavelength interval, different maxima and shoulders could be distinguished in some of the registers.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 91%

“…The spectral information provided by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy is related to the electronic transitions of the dyeing molecules and, thus, to the dyestuff and materials used in the dyeing processes, as well as to the fibre substrates (Gulmini et al 2013). Several works have been carried out during the past few years that report the application of reflectance spectroscopy to the characterization of the coloured species of textiles of different eras and cultures (Verhecken et al 2014;Barbache et al 2018;de Ferri et al 2018;Tamburini et al 2019a and2019b;Tamburini & Dyer 2019;Ding et al 2021) and, indeed, to the study of other valuable objects such as paints and manuscripts (Fonseca et al 2019;Pottier et al 2019).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Despite the progresses made during the past decade, the combination of diffuse reflectance spectroscopy with other non-invasive techniques that provide complementary information is still necessary to obtain complementary information that can be used for a better characterization of the colorants of textiles. Examples of such techniques are FTIR-ATR, scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detection (SEM-EDX) or fluorescence spectroscopy (Barbache et al 2018;Shahid et al 2019;Petroviciu et al 2019;al-Sharairi et al 2020).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Color study of historic silks

Pascual

Herráez‐Hernández

Campíns‐Falcó

et al. 2022

GEC

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The chemical characterization of silk textiles of historic value may be necessary to achieve a better understanding of the production processes applied, to evaluate their preservation, to detect manipulations or forgeries, and to value the combination of tradition and innovation in contemporary manufacturing techniques. The main objective of this work was to study four historical silks from the Garín collection, all of them from the 20th century, although with 19th century designs. To this end, non-invasive spectroscopic and microscopy techniques were applied in order to obtain information on the dyes used during their production and their link with those used in the silk industry in previous centuries, and to ascertain their state of conservation. Moreover, the images in LM, SEM and CM are contributing to the development of a 3D virtual loom that will favor more accessible and inclusive museography in museums specialized in the silk sector. Both the study of dyes and silk fibers and their virtual reproduction through artificial intelligence programs applied to the study of cultural heritage, by specialists from the Robotics Institute of the Universitat de València, has been developed in the framework of the SILKNOW project (https://silknow.eu/).

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Section: Resultssupporting

confidence: 61%

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 91%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Color study of historic silks

Pascual

Herráez‐Hernández

Campíns‐Falcó

et al. 2022

GEC

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“…All samples were recorded in the 290-600 nm wavelength range. The remission function F(R) was generated by using Kubelka-Munk equation [26,27]:…”

Section: Ground-state Diffuse Reflectance (Gsdr)mentioning

confidence: 99%

Superhydrophobic cotton fabrics based on ZnO nanoparticles functionalization

et al. 2019

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In the present work, 100% cotton knitted fabrics were functionalized with ZnO nanoparticles, in order to enhance the hydrophobic properties of the fibers surface. The incorporation methods of ZnO NPs and different types of cotton samples (including polymer coated, and uncoated with and without a nonionic pretreatment) were evaluated, in order to understand the influence in the hydrophobicity values. Cotton fabrics with and without NPs were characterized by ground-state diffuse reflectance, field emission scanning electron microscopy and energy-dispersive spectroscopy, attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and water contact angle (WCA). The best results were obtained when the polymer-coated fabric was functionalized using a precursor concentration of 0.2 M, exhibiting superhydrophobic behavior with static WACs of more than 150°. Although pretreated and untreated ZnO-functionalized cotton fabrics had a slightly lower wettability, they showed interesting results, with improvements in WCA from 116° to 143°. In summary, this work demonstrates that the ZnO NPs have a huge potential to be used as surface finishings for the development of easy cleaning fibrous structures.

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