Onychocosmeceuticals

Abstract

The nail is the largest skin appendage. In addition to its important physiological and sensory functions, it is also of great esthetic importance. Complaints of brittle or soft nails are frequent, particularly among women. Innumerable preparations claiming to improve the nail quality are being sold; however, most have no proven beneficial effect. Also, surgery cannot enhance nail quality but improve shape and size abnormalities.

Oral supplementation with specific bioactive collagen peptides improves nail growth and reduces symptoms of brittle nails

“…Patients who perceive nail fragility usually complain about slower nail growth, which may prolong the exposure of the nail plate to external damaging factors that worsen brittle nail syndrome . The nails show a continuous growth over a lifetime, controlled by a variety of cell‐cell, cell‐matrix, and cell‐tissue interactions as well as signaling factors, many of which are not yet clearly defined . It also depends on age, blood supply, nutrients, environmental, and occupational factors …”

Management of the Aging Nail

“…A variety of substances may be called onychocosmeceuticals [4]: Biotin, vitamin A, vitamin E, gelatine, sulfur-containing amino acids, other sulfur-rich proteins, hormones, essential rare elements, calcium, iron, zinc, selenium, silicium, or urea. Biotin is often called the "hair and nail vitamin".…”

Update on nail cosmetics

“…There are a subset of nail lacquers marketed as “nail treatment products” that contain added ingredients intended to produce some therapeutic benefit such as decreased nail breakage, increased nail growth, and fungal infection prevention . Lacquers marketed as nail strengtheners may contain iron or calcium, and those marketed as nail growth enhancers may contain fibered material, such as silk proteins, but the theory behind each is the same – to support the nail plate, making it less subject to breakage . The active ingredients in most over‐the‐counter antifungal nail solutions include clotrimazole 1%, tolnaftate 1%, undecylenic acid 25%, and benzalkonium chloride 0.1%.…”