Onshore Migration of Emerged Ridge and Ponded Runnel

Ridge-Runnel Migration

“…Robin et al, 2009), a constant still water level seaward of the ridge was adopted in the experiment. Figlus et al (2012) provided a detailed analysis of the experiment data and the numerical model comparison. This paper is intended to supplement that information by giving further detail about the experiment setup, the data analysis and the numerical model extension for ridge-runnel migration.…”

“…Furthermore, the net onshore sediment transport in the runnel is reduced via an exponential reduction factor to mimic sediment settling in the runnel on its seaward end. The model has been successfully employed to compute beach profile changes including dune overwash events (Figlus et al, 2011) and also shows promising results for the computation of ridge-runnel migration (Figlus et al, 2012). In the following, further information on the CSHORE upgrade related to ridge-runnel migration is given to supplement the information supplied by Figlus et al, (2012).…”

“…For a detailed comparison of the CSHORE computations with the measured data the reader is referred to Figlus et al (2010) and Figlus et al (2012). As an example and in order to show the impact of the CSHORE ridge-runnel modifications, the comparison of three measured and computed bottom profiles for the HR and LR test, respectively, are shown in Fig.…”

Rip Current Formation and Beach Safety Implications for Several U.S. Atlantic Coast Beach Areas

“…Offshore sand migrates landward en masse over a period of one to two weeks eventually attaching to the beachface. When the migrating bar reaches the foreshore, waves overtop the crest, carrying and trapping water and sediment between the ridge of the bar crest and berm (Figlus et al, 2012). Eventually, the ridge of sand becomes part of the berm if it is not re-eroded by the next storm.…”

“…Rip currents are strong, narrow currents that flow seaward from the surfzone (Komar, 1998) (Figlus et al, 2012). The water escaping the runnel at the break in the ridge then acts like a bar-gap rip current (Leatherman, 2012) by which ocean water makes its way back from the swash zone.…”