1998
DOI: 10.1017/s0022112097007751
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On the chance of freak waves at sea

Abstract: When deep-water surface gravity waves traverse an area with a curved or otherwise variable current, the current can act analogously to an optical lens, to focus wave action into a caustic region. In this region, waves of surprisingly large size, alternatively called freak, rogue, or giant waves are produced. We show how this mechanism produces freak waves at random locations when ocean swell traverses an area of random current. When the current has a constant (possibly zero) mean with small random fluctuations… Show more

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Cited by 199 publications
(152 citation statements)
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“…Indeed, such currents may reach velocities up to 1.5 meter per second and for a group velocity corresponding to waves of period equal to 10 second (a typical condition during storms), the ratio ∆U/c g is of the order of 0.2, large enough to trigger a dangerous rogue wave. We underline that this is completely different process from the development of a caustic, a pure linear mechanism [25][26][27]. From a physical point of view, the mechanism of formation of rogue waves can be summarized as follows: an initial wave whose perturbation is stable in terms of the modulational instability may become unstable in the presence of a current because of the a shift of the modulational instability band.…”
Section: Index (Bfi)mentioning
confidence: 96%
“…Indeed, such currents may reach velocities up to 1.5 meter per second and for a group velocity corresponding to waves of period equal to 10 second (a typical condition during storms), the ratio ∆U/c g is of the order of 0.2, large enough to trigger a dangerous rogue wave. We underline that this is completely different process from the development of a caustic, a pure linear mechanism [25][26][27]. From a physical point of view, the mechanism of formation of rogue waves can be summarized as follows: an initial wave whose perturbation is stable in terms of the modulational instability may become unstable in the presence of a current because of the a shift of the modulational instability band.…”
Section: Index (Bfi)mentioning
confidence: 96%
“…Another topic of practical interest in wave-current interaction problems is the appearance of large transient or freak waves with great amplitude and steepness owing to the focusing mechanism (e.g., Peregrine, 1976;Lavrenov, 1998;White and Fornberg, 1998;Kharif and Pelinovsky, 2006;Janssen and Herbers, 2009;Ruban, 2012;Osborne, 2001). Both nonlinear instability and refractive focusing have been identified as mechanisms for extreme-wave generation and these processes are generally concomitant in oceans and potentially act together to create giant waves.…”
Section: V Shugan Et Al: An Analytical Model Of the Evolution Ofmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Freak waves on the ocean surface are known for sinking the largest ships (White and Fornberg, 1998). Whether any similar waves occur in the atmosphere is uncertain.…”
Section: Freak Wavementioning
confidence: 99%