On local and convective accelerations in steep wave events

Jensen, Atle; Clamond, Didier; Huseby, Morten; Grue, John

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2006.03.013

Cited by 14 publications

(16 citation statements)

References 13 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…20 Laboratory measurements of kinematics under steep waves were performed by Jensen et al 21 and Grue and Jensen; 22 when possible, results were compared with those accumulated during field experiments. Nonlinear dependence of surface velocity on wave's steepness was suggested on the basis of those studies.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker

Shemer

Liberzon

2014

Physics of Fluids

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Horizontal Lagrangian velocities and accelerations at the surface of steep water-waves are studied by Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV) for gradually increasing crest heights up to the inception of a spilling breaker. Localized steep waves are excited using wavemaker-generated Peregrine breather-type wave trains. Actual crest and phase velocities are estimated from video recorded sequences of the instantaneous wave shape as well as from surface elevation measurements by wave gauges. Effects of nonlinearity and spectral width on phase velocity, as well as relation between the phase velocity and crest propagation speed are discussed. The inception of a spilling breaker is associated with the horizontal velocity of water particles at the crest attaining that of the crest, thus confirming the kinematic criterion for inception of breaking.

show abstract

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker

Shemer

Liberzon

2014

Physics of Fluids

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Indeed, accurate experiments and numerical simulations of large-amplitude irregular unsteady surface waves have shown that their structure can be relatively well described by suitably adapted steady irrotational solutions *didierc@unice.fr One contribution of 13 to a Theme Issue 'Nonlinear water waves '. This journal is © 2012 The Royal Society [7,8]. Thus, a better understanding of steady irrotational surface waves should be of interest to all practitioners in the field.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Note on the velocity and related fields of steady irrotational two-dimensional surface gravity waves

Clamond

2012

Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A.

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The velocity and other fields of steady two-dimensional surface gravity waves in irrotational motion are investigated numerically. Only symmetric waves with one crest per wavelength are considered, i.e. Stokes waves of finite amplitude, but not the highest waves, nor subharmonic and superharmonic bifurcations of Stokes waves. The numerical results are analysed, and several conjectures are made about the velocity and acceleration fields.

show abstract

“…For progressive waves in deep water, the Stokes expansion shows that the velocity field varies nearly exponentially along the vertical. Even for very large unsteady waves (including breaking waves), accurate numerical simulations and experiments have shown that the vertical variation of the velocity field is indeed very close to an exponential [19,21]. Thus, this property is exploited here to derive a simple approximation for waves in deep water.…”

Section: Model Equationsmentioning

confidence: 93%

Numerical study of the generalised Klein–Gordon equations

Dutykh

Chhay

Clamond³

2015

Physica D: Nonlinear Phenomena

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Abstract. In this study, we discuss an approximate set of equations describing water wave propagating in deep water. These generalized Klein-Gordon (gKG) equations possess a variational formulation, as well as a canonical Hamiltonian and multi-symplectic structures. Periodic travelling wave solutions are constructed numerically to high accuracy and compared to a seventh-order Stokes expansion of the full Euler equations. Then, we propose an efficient pseudo-spectral discretisation, which allows to assess the stability of travelling waves and localised wave packets.

show abstract

On local and convective accelerations in steep wave events

Cited by 14 publications

References 13 publications

Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker

Lagrangian kinematics of steep waves up to the inception of a spilling breaker

Note on the velocity and related fields of steady irrotational two-dimensional surface gravity waves

Numerical study of the generalised Klein–Gordon equations

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About