On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water

Barthelemy, Xavier; Banner, Michael L.; Peirson, William L.; Fedele, Francesco; Allis, Michael; Dias, Frédéric

doi:10.1017/jfm.2018.93

Cited by 86 publications

(170 citation statements)

References 62 publications

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“…The third type of criteria is dynamic and is based on the local energy flux velocity recently presented in Barthelemy et al (2018). For two dimensional flows, this breaking criterion can be reduced to a dynamical criterion: Bx = u 1 (xc, t)/C, where C is the (local) crest velocity, xc the position of the crest, and u 1 the horizontal orbital velocity at the crest.…”

Section: Wave Breaking Detection Criteriamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Wave breaking is detected when Bx = u 1 (xc, t)/C > σ i . Kurnia and van Groesen (2014) proposed σ i ∈ [0.7, 1], whereas Barthelemy et al (2018) suggest that breaking occurs when Bx is larger than [0.85, 0.86] for waves in deep and intermediate water depths. The same authors expect a similar range of values to be valid for shallow water conditions.…”

Section: Wave Breaking Detection Criteriamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Among the different criteria used, the most common approaches are based on considering: the angle of the wave front (Schäffer et al, 1993), the vertical velocity at the free surface (Kennedy et al, 2000;Kurnia and van Groesen, 2014), a combination of both (Kazolea et al, 2014), or the relative trough Froude number (Okamoto and Basco, 2006). Wave breaking can also be detected by computing the ratio of the horizontal wave crest particle velocity over wave phase speed, also defined as the energy flux velocity at the crest divided by crest velocity by Barthelemy et al (2018).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Simon

Papoutsellis

Benoît

et al. 2019

J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy

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The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes nonoverturning waves. Including the impacts of wave breaking dissipation is however possible by implementing a wave breaking initiation criterion and dissipation mechanism. Three criteria from the literature, including a geometric, kinematic, and dynamic-type criterion, are tested to determine the optimal criterion predicting the onset of wave breaking. Three wave breaking energy dissipation methods are also tested: the first two are based on the analogy of a breaking wave with a hydraulic jump, and the third one applies an eddy viscosity dissipative term. Numerical simulations are performed using combinations of the three breaking onset criteria and three dissipation methods. The simulation results are compared to observations from four laboratory experiments of regular and irregular waves breaking over a submerged bar, irregular waves breaking on a beach, and irregular waves breaking over a submerged slope. The different breaking approaches provide similar results after proper calibration. The wave transformation observed in the experiments is reproduced well, with better results for the case of regular waves than irregular waves. Moreover, the wave statistics and wave spectra are predicted well in general, and in particular for regular waves. Some differences are observed for irregular wave cases, in particular in the low-frequency range. This is attributed to incomplete absorption of the long waves in the numerical model. Otherwise, the wave spectra in the range [0.5fp, 5fp] are reproduced well, before, inside, and after the breaking zone for the three irregular wave experiments.

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Section: Wave Breaking Detection Criteriamentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Wave Breaking Detection Criteriamentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Simon

Papoutsellis

Benoît

et al. 2019

J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy

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“…On the surface, the expression for normalized energy flux (denoted by symbol B) reduces to the ratio of fluid velocity at the crest to the translational velocity of the crest for the tallest wave in the evolving group. Barthelemy et al (2018) found that a value of Bth=0.85 provides a robust threshold for breaking onset for 2-D wave packets propagating in deep or intermediate uniform water depths. Further targeted study of representative cases of the most severe laterally-focused 3-D wave packets in deep and intermediate depth water shows that the threshold remains robust.…”

Section: Problem Statementmentioning

confidence: 96%

“…This can be primarily attributed to different choices for averaging periods, as discussed in detail in Derakhti et al (2018). Barthelemy et al (2018) showed that highest nonbreaking waves were clearly separated from marginally breaking waves by their normalized energy fluxes localized near the crest tip region, and that initial breaking instability occurs within a very compact region centered on the wave crest. On the surface, the expression for normalized energy flux (denoted by symbol B) reduces to the ratio of fluid velocity at the crest to the translational velocity of the crest for the tallest wave in the evolving group.…”

Section: Problem Statementmentioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting the Breaking Strength of Gravity Water Waves From Deep to Shallow Water

Kirby¹,

Derakhti²,

Banner³

et al. 2018

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves.Our goal is to find a robust and local parameterization to predict the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves. We use a LES/VOF model described by Derakhti & Kirby (2014) to simulate nonlinear wave evolution, breaking onset and post-breaking behavior for representative cases of focused wave packets or modulated wave trains. Using these numerical results, we investigate the relationship between the breaking strength parameter b and the breaking onset parameter B proposed by Barthelemy et al. (2018). While the results are potentially applicable more generally, in this paper we concentrate on breaking events due to focusing or modulational instability in wave packets over flat bottom topography and for conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth, with depth to wavelength ratios ranging from 0.68 to 0.13.

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Nonlinear time‐domain wave‐structure interaction: A parallel fast integral equation approach

Harris

Dombre

Benoît

et al. 2021

Numerical Methods in Fluids

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We report on the development and validation of a new Numerical Wave Tank (NWT) solving fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) equations, as a more efficient variation of Grilli et al.'s NWT [Grilli et al., A fully nonlinear model for three-dimensional overturning waves over arbitrary bottom, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids 35 ( 2001) 829-867], which was successful at modeling many wave phenomena, including landslide-generated tsunamis, rogue waves, and the initiation of wave breaking over slopes. This earlier NWT combined a three dimensional MII (mid-interval interpolation) boundary element method (BEM) to an explicit mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian time integration. The latter was based on second-order Taylor series expansions for the mesh geometry and Dirichlet free surface boundary condition for the potential, requiring high-order derivatives to be computed in space and time. Here, to be able to solve large scale wave-structure interaction problems for surface-piercing bodies of complex geometry, of interest for ocean engineering and naval hydrodynamics applications, the NWT is reformulated to use cubic Bspline meshes and the BEM solution is accelerated with a parallelized Fast Multipole Method (FMM) based on ExaFMM, one of the fastest open source FMM to date. The NWT accuracy, convergence, and scaling are first assessed for simple cases, by comparing results with those of the earlier MII-NWT as a function of mesh size and other model parameters. The relevance of the new NWT for solving the targeted applications is then demonstrated for surface piercing fixed cylinders, for which we show that results agree well with theoretical and experimental data for wave elevation and hydrodynamic forces.

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On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water

Cited by 86 publications

References 62 publications

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Predicting the Breaking Strength of Gravity Water Waves From Deep to Shallow Water

Nonlinear time‐domain wave‐structure interaction: A parallel fast integral equation approach

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