On a Calculation of Penetrating Waves into the Port

Abstract

For 亡he ship port ， it is one of the most 三 mportant purpose to prevent the wave penetration ． Energy attenuation of penetrating waves in the port is very influenced by the arrange 皿 ent of breakwaters ， There are many constituents for the transfomlation of wave property in the port ． We must consider the many ph6nomena for the calcu 正 ation of waves ， which are the diffraction ， the r α［ 1ection， the refraction ， the bottom friction ， the shallow water effect and the water breaking ． For the regular waves ， each phenomena has been analyzcd theoretically and experimen 七ally ， and cemparison of theory and reality has rnet with gQod results ． The ir エegular penetrating wave which has a directionaL spe ( 比rum is n 〕ade up of many cQmpcneut waves ， each of which has a eertain frequency and direction ． If we suppQse ， therefor ， that each co ； nponent waves has a general property of regular waves ， we cqn take advantage of above results ．