Observations of beach cusp evolution at Melbourne Beach, Florida, USA

Gaalen, J. F. van; Kruse, Sarah; Coco, Giovanni; Collins, Lori; Doering, Travis

doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.01.019

Cited by 33 publications

(24 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…Field data are equivocal regarding whether beach cusps are erosive or accretionary features, although more recent literature seems to point toward their being a combination of the two [ Coco et al , ; van Gaalen et al , ]. What does seem clear now is that individual cusps can merge [ Almar et al , ], forming larger local spacings.…”

Section: Beach Cuspsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth‐averaged sediment concentration

Ribas

Falqués

Swart

et al. 2015

Reviews of Geophysics

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This review highlights the important role of the depth‐averaged sediment concentration (DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that have an alongshore rhythmic pattern: beach cusps, surf zone transverse and crescentic bars, and shoreface‐connected sand ridges. We present a formulation and methodology, based on the knowledge of the DASC (which equals the sediment load divided by the water depth), that has been successfully used to understand the characteristics of these features. These sand bodies, relevant for coastal engineering and other disciplines, are located in different parts of the coastal zone and are characterized by different spatial and temporal scales, but the same technique can be used to understand them. Since the sand bodies occur in the presence of depth‐averaged currents, the sediment transport approximately equals a sediment load times the current. Moreover, it is assumed that waves essentially mobilize the sediment, and the current increases this mobilization and advects the sediment. In such conditions, knowing the spatial distribution of the DASC and the depth‐averaged currents induced by the forcing (waves, wind, and pressure gradients) over the patterns allows inferring the convergence/divergence of sediment transport. Deposition (erosion) occurs where the current flows from areas of high to low (low to high) values of DASC. The formulation and methodology are especially useful to understand the positive feedback mechanisms between flow and morphology leading to the formation of those morphological features, but the physical mechanisms for their migration, their finite‐amplitude behavior and their decay can also be explored.

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Section: Beach Cuspsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth‐averaged sediment concentration

Ribas

Falqués

Swart

et al. 2015

Reviews of Geophysics

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“…3.4). For small areas on the order of 10 0 -10 1 m 2 , larger scan angles are easier to avoid so that dense datasets with millimeter-accurate data are possible (e.g., van Gaalen et al 2011). At larger geographic scales, each additional scan substantially increases the survey time, physical effort required, and also far field positional errors.…”

Section: Field Surveys and Scanner Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…An important value of TLS instruments lies in the ability to perform repeated surveys in settings that were traditionally difficult to monitor (Young et al 2010). TLS-derived DTMs have been used to provide grain-scale surface roughness data for atmosphere-surface models , to determine the relative ages and the rates and types of surface processes at decimeter scales (Nield et al 2011;van Gaalen et al 2011), and to better improve large-scale models used to classifying coastal flooding and disaster management strategies (Mastronuzzi and Pignatelli 2011;Pignatelli et al 2010). When the topographic data from a TLS survey are accompanied by intensity measurements, individual points can be segregated and/or classified based on spectral characteristics, indicating lithological changes in a scanned feature (Hobbs et al 2010) or the moisture content of ephemeral landforms (Nield et al 2011).…”

Section: Applications Of Tls In Coastal Settingsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…TLS surveys prove especially useful when a time series of centimeter-scale data are required from settings like marshes and mud flats, which have been difficult to monitor using traditional survey techniques (Thiebes et al 2013). Many TLS surveys that focus on geomorphic changes over time not only provide more accurate and detailed data then has been previously available, but are also able to rapidly repeat surveys so as to take advantage of changes that occur over a single tidal cycle (i.e., strip mobility related to moisture content (Nield et al 2011)), multiple tidal cycles (i.e., beach cusp morphodynamics (van Gaalen et al 2011), or event and seasonal forcings on beach geometry (e.g., Pietro et al 2008;Theuerkauf and Rodriguez 2012). TLS surveys have tackled problems ranging in scope from the mobility of a single sandstrip (Nield et al 2011) to largescale geomorphic analyses of how the number, height, and orientation of dunes change from season to season (Montreuil et al 2013).…”

Section: Applications Of Tls In Coastal Settingsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Terrestrial Laser Scanner Surveying in Coastal Settings

O’Neal

2014

Remote Sensing and Modeling

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Over the last decade, there has been a proliferation of commercially available tripod-mounted Terrestrial Laser Scanner (TLS) systems that use the phase difference or the time-of-flight of emitted pulses of light to rapidly acquire high-density topographic and surface reflectance data. These TLS systems have been well received in the Earth science community because of their ability to collect 10 2 -10 5 measurements per second of azimuth, zenith, distance, intensity, and surface color data at distances ranging from 10 0 to 10 3 m. A TLS instrument's portability, ease of use, and rate of data collection opens the possibility of collecting detailed topographic data at sites where such surveys may not have been possible before. The application of TLS data to current Earth sciences research has allowed us to better understand of the character, timing, rates, and spatial scales of different processes that have been difficult, if not impossible, to evaluate using traditional survey techniques. However, the successes achieved with TLS systems in certain projects may result in unrealistic expectations regarding the density and quality of data that can reasonably be achieved in different settings. This chapter seeks to orient potential or experienced TLS users to its applicability in above-water coastal settings. An emphasis is placed on providing insight into both the variety of current research using TLS data, as well as the compromises in spatial resolution that necessarily arise from field conditions and survey design.

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“…Thus, Terrestrial 3D Laser Scanning (TLS) has increasingly become the method of choice for beach surveying (e.g. Pietro et al 2008, van Gaalen et al 2011. Portable scanners allow the completion of beach surveys in excess of hundreds of metres with sub-centimetre spatial resolution, over the course of a few hours.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Application of an Autonomous Robot for the Collection of Nearshore Topographic and Hydrodynamic Measurements

Wübbold

Hentschel

Vousdoukas

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Beach topographic and hydrodynamic measurements are essential for coastal geology and engineering studies as well as sustainable coastal management. Standard approaches involve either time-consuming manual data acquisition usually with limited coverage or remote sensing techniques which are usually characterized by low resolution or increased costs. The present contribution reports the results from the application of the autonomous robot RTSHanna with a calibrated sensor setup including 3D laser range scanners, a camera, a Differential GPS and an inertial measurement unit which significantly facilitates field data collection. RTS-Hanna was tested at the Wadden Sea Barrier Island Langeoog, Northern Germany, for two days and was proven capable of autonomously collecting topographic scans. 175 GB of dense topographic and water surface elevation data were collected, including RBG images, while RTS-Hanna covered a total of 21 km of coastline in approximately 3 hours. Scans of the surf/swash zone allowed continuous measurements of topographic changes at the beachface, wave propagation velocities and wave breaking heights.

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Observations of beach cusp evolution at Melbourne Beach, Florida, USA

Cited by 33 publications

References 33 publications

Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth‐averaged sediment concentration

Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth‐averaged sediment concentration

Terrestrial Laser Scanner Surveying in Coastal Settings

Application of an Autonomous Robot for the Collection of Nearshore Topographic and Hydrodynamic Measurements

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