Numerical Study of the Impact of Climate Change on Irregular Wave Run-up Over Reef-Fringed Coasts

Liu, Weijie; Shao, K; Ning, Yue; Zhao, Xizeng

doi:10.1007/s13344-020-0016-6

Cited by 8 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 40 publications

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“…Laboratory data of free surface elevation for eight gauges and runup oscillations were used to provide a comprehensive and detailed methodology for sensitivity analysis, calibration, and validation of the SWASH model for its application to the computation of runup oscillations over fringing reefs [39]. The fully nonlinear and dispersive Boussinesq-type model FUNWAVE-TVD was tested with laboratory data to assess its ability to predict the cross-shore evolution of significant wave heights in the SW and IG frequency bands, and the runup spectrum for irregular waves propagating over a laboratory scale fringing reef [40]. Detailed data from a laboratory experiment for waves breaking over submerged reef [41] were also used to validate the computation of runup over a steep-sided coastal structure with a Boussinesq-type model [42].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

Pinault

Morichon

Roeber

2020

JMSE

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Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as R2% show relative errors of less than 6%. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash SIG is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

Pinault

Morichon

Roeber

2020

JMSE

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“…In past decades, effects of the offshore fringing reef on wave hydrodynamics over the reef have been intensively studied in the community of coastal engineering (e.g., Liu et al (2020aLiu et al ( , 2020b; Liu et al (2020c); Yao et al (2016); Young (1989)). Influences of the offshore reef on harbor resonance have also been paid attention on by a few scholars.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Study on Influences of Fringing Reef on Harbor Oscillations Triggered by N-Waves

et al. 2021

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Influences of topographic variations of the offshore fringing reef on the harbor oscillations excited by incident N-waves with different amplitudes and waveform types are studied for the first time. Both the propagation of the N-waves over the reef and the subsequently-induced harbor oscillations are simulated by a Boussinesq-type numerical model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The present study concentrates on revealing the influences of the plane reef-face slope, the reef-face profile shape and the lagoon width on the maximum runup, the wave energy distribution and the total wave energy within the harbor. It shows that both the wave energy distribution uniformity and the total wave energy gradually increase with decreasing reef-face slope. The profile shape of the reef face suffering leading-elevation N-waves (LEN waves) has a negligible impact on the wave energy distribution uniformity, while for leading-depression N-waves (LDN waves), the latter gradually decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. The total wave energy always first increases and then decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. In general, the total wave energy first sharply decreases and then slightly increases with the lagoon width, regardless of the reef-face width and the incident waveform type. The maximum runup subjected to the LEN waves decreases monotonously with the lagoon width. However, for the LDN waves, its changing trend with the lagoon width relies on the incident wave amplitude.

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Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom

et al. 2021

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Numerical Study of the Impact of Climate Change on Irregular Wave Run-up Over Reef-Fringed Coasts

Cited by 8 publications

References 40 publications

Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

Estimation of Irregular Wave Runup on Intermediate and Reflective Beaches Using a Phase-Resolving Numerical Model

Study on Influences of Fringing Reef on Harbor Oscillations Triggered by N-Waves

Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom

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