Numerical Simulations of Rip Currents Under Phase-Resolved Directional Random Wave Conditions

Abstract

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

Phase-Resolved Wave Simulation over Isolated Seamount

“…In contrast, phase-resolved wave models show extensive details of the wave field, including wave shoaling, refraction, reflection, diffraction, wave breaking, and special wave patterns such as square waves [16]. The work of [18] used a phase-resolved model based on Boussinesq equations to investigate the effect of the alongshore variations induced by topography and the phase interaction of multi-directional random waves in the surf zone wave field. The phase-resolved wave model demonstrated skill in a relatively short 300 m cross-shore model domain for predicting phase-resolved run-up and the number of overtopping events in the field during storm conditions [19].…”

A Numerical Study of Rip Current Generation Modulated with Tidal Elevations at the Daecheon Beach

“…즉, 연안방향을 따라 부분적으 로 파랑 에너지가 낮아지면, 파랑유도 잉여운동량 플럭스 (wave-induced excess momentum flux)의 기울기가 발생하 고, 그 낮아진 영역을 통하여 외해방향으로 강한 흐름이 발 생하게 된다는 것이다 (Choi et al, 2012). 최근에는 위상을 포함한 쇄파 스케일의 파력에 따른 연안흐름 연구가 진행 되었고 (Clark et al, 2012;Feddersen, 2014;Johnson and Pattiaratchi, 2006;Peregrine, 1998Peregrine, , 1999, 다양한 원인에 의해 끊어진 파봉선을 갖는 파의 쇄파에 따른 변동이 이안류 를 발생시키는 근본적인 메커니즘 (Peregrine, 1998)으로 인식 되기 시작했다 (Johnson and Pattiaratchi, 2006;Clark et al, 2012;Choi et al, 2015;Choi, 2015). 측 자료분석 등 다양한 기법을 이용한 연구 (Yoon et al, 2012;Choi et al, 2012;Choi et al, 2013;Shin et al (Chen et al, 1999;Chen et al, 2000;.…”

Numerical Study on Rip Current Likelihood according to the Beach Nourishment in the Haeundae Coast

“…따라서 위상간의 상호작용으로 발생 하는 짧은 파봉선을 갖는 파의 진행과 그에 따른 쇄파대의 파 봉선 끝단에서 시작되는 이안류를 재현하기 위해서는 위상을 포함한 모형을 이용한 이안류 수치모의가 필요하다 (Choi et al, 2015). 그 가운데 특정한 형태인 벌집구조 파랑형태에 따 른 이안류 발생 Choi et al, 2012Choi et al, , 2013 (Chen et al, 1999;Chen et al, 2000;Kennedy et al, 2000).…”