Numerical Hydrodynamic Wave Modelling Using Spatial Discretization in Brebes Waters, Central Java, Indonesia

Abstract

When the wave is moving toward the shoreline, hydrodynamic processes occurred in the waves that give an effect on the shoreline and its surrounding buildings. The process of erosion and accretion that occurred on Brebes coastal area induces certain impacts. The purpose of this study was to determine the pattern of hydro-oceanography and seabed morphology in coastal areas. Primary data obtained during field survey was employed in this study, which was processed using simulation models by applying spatial discretization method that is based on the finite volume equations to obtain the condition of waves, currents, sediment transports and tides. The results showed Brebes waters included in the category of shallow waters with slope topography, while the tidal type is a mixed tide prevailing semidiurnal. Waves were generated in the Northern Brebes then were moved towards the mainland until it deformed, leaving energy in the form of longshore current that goes into the area around the beach ridge. The time difference between high and low tide was influenced by the mass of estuary water supply from the sea as well as the mass of water from upstream to downstream. The high level of vulnerability in the coastal area requires the more effective and efficient treatment to prevent a negative impact on physical and social conditions.

Hydrodynamics Sabang Bay and Its Influence on Near Shore Sediment Transport, Weh Island, Indonesia

“…Figure 4. significant depth changes and deceleration of wave group velocity (Ondara et al, 2018). Regarding the dominant wave direction, almost 90 percent of wave directions (Hs between 1-3 meters) move from the north toward the south.…”

“…If we see in more detail, even though during spring tidal conditions, the deviation of the symmetrical tidal phase is higher, but during neap tidal conditions, the surface depiction is likely to reflect an erratic fluctuation probably caused by the influence of waves. According to Ondara et al (2018), the generation of waves is almost simultaneously with tidal elevation displacement. That is why the formation of surface water tends to have a sharp fluctuation due to wind-wave-driven surface current influences.…”

Model Numerik Hidrodinamika Arus dan Gelombang Dengan Pendekatan Fully Spectral Formulation untuk Pengembangan Kawasan Dermaga Perikanan Banda Aceh

“…Kecepatan angin dominan berasal dari arah barat dan barat daya, arah tersebut berasal dari laut terbuka dimana tempat terjadinya daerah pembangkitan gelombang (Ondara et al, 2018). Bentuk morfologi pantai di sekitar dermaga mempengaruhi arah dan tinggi gelombang (S. Suwardi et al, 2015), terlihat (Gambar 9) bahwa di bagian barat laut dan utara dermaga perikanan terlindungi oleh pesisir pantai sehingga gelombang dari arah tersebut mampu diredam oleh material penyusun batu yang sebagian besar melindungi pesisir pantai Kota Banda Aceh.…”

Particle tracking simulation of marine debris using Lagrangian discrete and mesh spatial discretization in Banda Aceh waters

“…The reference for the depth used was the sea level for the nearest tidal station, namely Sabang Station, which was processed based on observations for 30 days. Secondary bathymetry data were used, obtained from BIG, NGDC, BODC, BPPT, LIPI, P3GL, and other institutions with a spatial resolution of 6 arc-second datum MSL to complete the bathymetry data that was not included in the measurement area (Ondara et al, 2018).…”