Nonlinear Wave Interaction With Submerged and Surface-Piercing Porous Structures

Nwogu, Okey; Demirbilek, Zeki

doi:10.1142/9789812709554_0025

Cited by 1 publication

(2 citation statements)

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“…The numerical model investigated in the present study is BOUSS-2D, and it is based on a fully nonlinear variant of the set of Boussinesq equations derived by Nwogu (1993b). Additional information on Boussinesq equations and BOUSS-2D can be found in Nwogu and Demirbilek (2007), Nwogu and Demirbilek (2006), Asmar and Nwogu (2006), Nwogu (1996), Demirbilek et al (2005a and2005b), and Nwogu and Demirbilek (2001). The depth-integrated mass and momentum equations can be written in terms of the free surface elevation η(x,t) (where x denotes the two horizontal directions and t is time), the depth-averaged horizontal velocities u , and the horizontal velocity at elevation z = z α below the stillwater level, u α (x,t), as…”

Section: Literature Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The elevation of the velocity variable is chosen to be z α = -0.535h (for h > 0) to minimize differences between the linear dispersion characteristics of the Boussinesq model and the exact dispersion relation for small amplitude waves Demirbilek 2006 and. To ensure that the velocity variable remains in the water column during wave propagation over initially dry land, the location of the velocity variable is switched to the seabed for land regions, i.e., z α = -h for h < 0.…”

Section: Literature Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Propagation and Runup over Fringing Coral Reefs, Model Evaluation Report

Demirbilek¹,

Nwogu²

2007

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This report describes evaluation of a two-dimensional Boussinesq-type wave model, BOUSS-2D, with data obtained from two laboratory experiments and two field studies at the islands of Guam and Hawaii, for waves propagating over fringing reefs. The model evaluation had two goals: (a) investigate differences between laboratory and field characteristics of wave transformation processes over reefs, and (b) assess overall predictive capabilities of the model for reef systems with steep slopes and extended widths in shallower water. The focus in this evaluation study was on wave breaking, bottom friction parameterization, and wave setup and runup capabilities of Boussinesq wave model.In this report, the testing procedure and performance of the Boussinesq wave model are discussed. Because details of the laboratory and field studies were unavailable at the time of writing, and these are expected to be documented in other reports, only some general features of data pertinent to the numerical modeling study are presented. The time series of laboratory and field data were used in the numerical model validation study. These were converted to wave energy spectral densities, significant wave height, peak wave period, and mean water level setup for comparison to model predictions. Findings from comparisons of measurements and model calculations are presented in figures and tables, and these are supplemented as necessary with discussion of the model's capability in describing different wave processes over coral reefs. Overall, the model performed reasonably well for laboratory data with errors of less than 10 percent for the maximum runup height. For the field data, it was determined that wave energy dissipation over extremely rough coral reef surfaces could not be simply described by a quadratic bottom friction law. Reasonable model-data agreement was obtained by using an eddyviscosity type term to parameterize wave energy dissipation due to the turbulent boundary layer over rough coral reef bottoms.

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