Noms de pays et produits du terroir : enjeux des dénominations géographiques

Abstract

Depuis la fin du xixe siècle, la question des liens entre les produits agro-alimentaires (ici, les fromages) et leur espace de production se pose toujours avec plus d'acuité. Elle est étroitement liée à celle de la propriété de leur dénomination de type géographique. La revendication de ces liens fait l'objet de nombreux débats qui mobilisent des savoirs géographiques, notamment lorsqu'il s'agit de délimiter l'aire de production. Il est ainsi souvent question de «terroir». La multiplicité des définitions et des rôles que l'on assigne à cette notion reflète la complexité des enjeux associés aux produits agro-alimentaires à dénomination géographique.

The rise and fall of Chanco cheese in Chile (1860-1930)

“…It acknowledges a product for its quality, which is strongly associated with its territorial origin and handcrafted cheese-making (Perrier-Cornet and Sylvander, 2000). The AO for cheeses has been strongly linked to the development of rural communities through collectively coordinated strategies focused on stimulating cooperation and protecting producers' property rights (Delfosse, 1997;Perrier-Cornet and Sylvander, 2000).…”

“…To make the AO system possible, France (and almost all of Europe) endured a very complex period spanning from the last third of the 19th century to the last years of the first third of the 20th century, in which they developed a culture against the fraud and falsification of products' origin. An AO requires cooperation between producers and the support of technicians (Delfosse, 1997). However, an essential factor in establishing an AO is the consistency of the State's action to legally protect geographically identified typical products, involving collaboration of parliamentarians, producers, lobbyists, technicians and executive officers to protect the identity, origin and quality of these products to preserve their own national identity (Defolsse, 1997;Perrier-Cornet and Sylvander, 2000).…”

Food heritage and nationalism in Europe

“…Scholars have started investigating culinary politics and its role in the consolidation and transformation of nation states, as in Japan (Ichijo and Ranta 2016 ); they have highlighted how important those policies were in consolidating community ties and affi rming strong political identities (Gvion 2011 ). Aykan speaks of a new "food heritage fever" (Aykan 2016 , 799) while Demossier has investigated the role of terroir (Delfosse 1997(Delfosse , 2011Demossier 2016 ), which had become a clear issue even in French state banquets during Chirac's presidency (Roux 2017 ): in fact, nowhere is the symbolic meaning of food more in evidence than at public events. Julia Csergo wrote of her own experience as a scholar in charge of the UNESCO candidature of the gastronomic meal of the French (Csergo 2016 ; Tornatore 2012 ).…”

El patrimonio y el territorio como activos para el desarrollo desde la perspectiva del ocio y del turismo

“…En este último sentido resulta signifi cativo que tanto organismos internacionales, como la UNESCO y el Consejo de Europa, como otros nacionales y regionales de diversos países europeos hayan aumentado sus declaraciones sobre bienes culturales y espacios naturales protegidos, señalando la necesidad de poner en valor tales recursos al considerarlos básicos para propiciar el desarrollo. Constituyen ejemplos representativos los casos de Gran Bretaña, donde se han realizado estudios a escala europea sobre las estrechas relaciones entre cultura, economía y territorio (Ilbery y Kneafsey 1998; Graham-Ashworth-Tunbridge, 2000); y de Francia, donde despierta un gran interés el debate sobre el término de terroir (terruño) y la revalorización de productos locales como parte terroir (terruño) y la revalorización de productos locales como parte terroir del patrimonio cultural para el fomento de la economía regional (Delfosse, 1997). Además, planteamientos similares se han ido difundiendo también por otros países como España y Alemania (Gómez de la Iglesia, ed., 2001;Voth, 2003).…”