Night Cream Containing Melatonin, Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Helps Reduce Skin Reactivity and Signs of Photodamage: Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies

Abstract

Introduction: Extrinsic factors, such as solar radiation and urban pollution, cause damage that alters the structure, function and appearance of skin. The aim of this study was to determine the ability of a night cream containing melatonin, carnosine and Helichrysum italicum extract (referred to here as Night Cream) to reduce extrinsic skin damage, and to evaluate the efficacy of this Night Cream to reduce clinical signs of age and photodamage under normal conditions of use. Methods: Recovery from extrinsic damage was assessed by exposing human skin explants to ultraviolet (UV) A, infrared light, blue light or pollution and then treating the stress-exposed explants with Night Cream. Markers of oxidative stress were examined by immunohistochemistry. Anti-aging and calming properties were determined in four single-center, open-label trials involving 117 individuals. Subjects applied Night Cream to their face once nightly for up to 12 weeks. Improvements in clinical signs of age and photodamage, and reduction of lactic acid-induced stinging were evaluated by investigator assessment and subject selfassessment. Results: Night Cream significantly reduced oxidative stress in human skin ex vivo. Clinically, hydration (? 64.4%; p \ 0.05) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values (-10.0%; p \ 0.05) were improved within 1 h of use. Wrinkle counts were reduced by up to 18.9% (p \ 0.05), and brown and UV spot numbers by 5.5% (p \ 0.05) and 13.2% (p \ 0.05), respectively. Lactic acid-induced stinging was significantly reduced within 7 days of use, with 86.7% of subjects reporting that their skin felt calmer. Conclusion: These findings suggest that Night Cream reduces skin damage caused by environmental factors and that its nightly use can improve clinical signs of aging with additional skin calming benefits.

A Review and Evaluation of the Data Supporting Internal Use of Helichrysum italicum

“…The clinical experiments performed by Santini [ 49 ], Benigni [ 50 ], Vannini [ 51 ] and Campanini [ 52 ] are described in Italian literature and summarized in the article by Appendino et al [ 53 ]. These observations are presented in Table 2 along with additional studies by Facino et al [ 16 ], Voinchet and Giraud-Robert [ 54 ], and a very recent one by Granger et al [ 55 ]. These studies mainly cover treatments of respiratory and dermal conditions.…”

Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging

“…The use of creams containing melatonin, carnosine, and Helichrysum italicum extract on skin explants exposed to a mixture of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons and heavy metals leads to a reduction in skin damage and irritation [276]. The study demonstrated a significant decrease in pollution-activated transcription factor aryl hydrocarbon receptors (AhR) and type I collagen in melatonin-treated explants.…”

Revisiting the role of melatonin in human melanocyte physiology: A skin context perspective

“…Its photoprotective, 59,60 antiphotoaging, 10,50,177,245–247 antioxidative damage‐protective, 5,28,86,89,92,189,190 and DNA damage‐repair 28 properties also raise the possibility that melatonin may be useful to slow intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging and may exert melanocyte‐protective properties in vitiligo and perhaps even aging‐associated hair graying resulting from oxidative damage to the HFPU 68 . In fact, melatonin and its metabolites (e.g., AFMK) protect melanocytes in vitro 28 from UV‐induced DNA damage and apoptosis 50,248 when applied both before 249 and immediately after UVB exposure 28 .…”